Guides Archives - Electric Scooter Insider

Electric Scooter Accessories: Upgrade Your Scooter

Josh Frisby — Mon, 05 Jun 2023 20:34:25 +0000

From phone holders to fingerprint readers, and tire pumps to fast chargers, there are a wide array of electric scooter accessories to choose from.

In this guide, you’ll learn about the different types of accessories for your scooter’s frame, handlebars, deck, and tires, as well as useful storage, light, anti-theft, and charging items.

Handlebars

Extenders, risers, wing mirrors, phone holders, and horns

Frame

Stickers, graphic kits, and steering dampers

Deck

Grip tape, covers, seats, carry handles, and trolley wheels

Tires

Air pump, valve extenders, slime, and different tire types

Battery & Chargers

Fast chargers and additional (detachable) batteries

Storage

Bags (pouches), baskets, and storage trunks

Lights

Headlights, safety lights, wing lights, and LED Strips

Anti-Theft

Alarms, GPS trackers,, fingerprint readers, and locks

Safety Gear

Helmets, gloves, upper and lower-body protection

Extenders, risers, wing mirrors, phone holders, and horns

Handlebar Accessories

Handlebar Extender (Stock Bar)

If you plan to attach lots of accessories to your handlebars, but there isn’t enough space, then you should use a handlebar extender.

A handlebar extender is a metal or carbon fiber bar that can be clamped onto your handlebars to provide mounting space for your devices.

Price: $10 – $40

Handlebar Riser

The height between a scooter's deck and its handlebars is one of the most important factors for ride quality.

As a rule of thumb, a deck-to-handlebar height of 40 inches is the minimum requirement for tall riders that are over 6 feet. Anything below this can impact your riding experience since it requires you to hunch over.

Handlebar risers are, therefore, great accessories for extending the height of your handlebars. They typically add between 2 and 4 inches.

The riser is added between the handlebars and the stem of your electric scooter. However, they can only be used on scooters where there’s an existing bracket holding the handlebars in place.

Scooters with handlebars that are welded to the stem or that have an LED display built into them, cannot be fitted with handlebar risers. Similarly, there’s no one-size fits all approach, so you need to make sure that you pick the correct riser for your scooter.

Price: $15 – $80

Side-View Mirrors (Wing Mirrors)

Side view mirrors are similar to those on cars and motorbikes. They increase your visibility of the road by letting you see what’s behind and to the side of you. Most come with clips or small brackets so that they can be easily fixed to the handlebars.

Price: $10 – $40

Phone Holders

Phone holders are adjustable brackets that can be clipped onto your handlebars. They’re particularly useful if you want to use your phone as a navigational device or have easy access to your scooter’s mobile app while you ride.

The vast majority are designed to fit any scooter and phone.

Price: $10 – $60

Further Information:

Electric Scooter Phone Holders: Our Top Picks & How to Choose

Horn

Scooters are quiet and a horn is a great way to make other road users aware of your presence. They can be attached to your handlebars and use either a speaker to emit an audible beep or for more powerful motorcycle-grade horns, bellow out 105db of noise.

Horns that come pre-fitted are powered by the scooter's internal battery but if you buy one separately you may have to recharge it via a USB cable.

Price: $10 – $40

Stickers, graphic kits, and steering dampers

Frame Accessories

Sticker & Graphic Kits

Most electric scooters come with basic color schemes – often black or gray – but if you prefer something a little more vibrant you can buy stickers and graphic kits. Some are functional and include reflective strips to increase your visibility, while others are designed to look good.

There are lots of pre-made designs available stretching from small decals to full stem graphics, and some even come with colorful grip strips for your deck.

Some companies will even print custom graphics so that you can personalize your scooter.

Price: $50 – $60

Steering Damper

Steering dampers are devices that reduce unwanted movement from the stem and handlebars. Here, shakes and wobbles that could otherwise cause the rotation of the handlebars are soaked up by the damper, allowing you to remain in control.

They connect the neck of the scooter to the base of the stem to stabilize the steering column.

Using a hydraulic piston, you can adjust the ease at which the handlebars, steering column, and front tire rotate. Turning the dial clockwise increases the force needed to rotate the handlebars while turning it anti-clockwise eases the motion.

Dampers can be used on most scooters but they’re particularly useful on models that can reach speeds of 30 mph or more.

Price: $50 – $300

Grip tape, covers, seats, carry handles, and trolley wheels

Deck Accessories

Grip Tape

Grip tape is an adhesive tape with the texture of sandpaper. It can be stuck onto electric scooter decks to increase friction and hold your feet in place as you ride.

Most scooters already come with some form of grip, but it may need replacing or you might want to enhance it. You can buy grip tape as a single sheet and cut it to size yourself.

Price: $10 – $30

Deck Cover

A deck cover is an acyclic topper that’s fixed over your scooter’s deck. It can be used to protect the original deck, change the scooter’s appearance, or replace a damaged surface. Different types are available depending on what you need them for.

Clear covers are often used to protect the decals and designs of the deck underneath, but many riders have explored different ways in which covers can enhance the aesthetic of their scooter. For instance, some Dualtron riders have fitted thin LED strips between the original deck and the cover to illuminate it at night for a Fast & Furious inspired appearance.

Price: $35 – $200

Seat

Long rides on an electric scooter can be hard on your legs and back. One way to prevent this is by adding a seat. Not all scooters can be equipped with a seat, but those that can have pre-drilled holes where the seat fixture can be mounted.

There’s no one-size fits all attachment, so you need to make sure that you select the correct seat for your scooter.

Price: $70 – $150

Further Information:

Electric Scooters With Seats

Carry Handle

Carrying a folded scooter, lifting it into a trunk, or packing it into storage can be tricky, especially with models that are on the heavier side. By adding a carry handle, they are easier to lift.

Handles can be fitted to the rear of the deck or clipped onto the stem. If it’s on the deck, it’s called a tow handle and can be used to assist in the lifting of an unfolded scooter. The handle on the stem, however, is used to carry the scooter when folded.

Price: $10 – $40

Trolley Wheels

Trolley wheels are small solid wheels that you fix to the front of your electric scooter’s deck.

Once installed, the wheels allow you to pull your folded scooter by its handlebars. This is a great addition for larger scooters that are too heavy to lift.

Price: $30 – $60

Air pump, valve extenders, slime, and different tire types

Tire Accessories

Air Pump

Air pumps are small compressors that are used to inflate your tires.

Most are electric and can be recharged via USB, but some are manual and similar to standard bike pumps. Both are powerful enough to quickly reinflate pneumatic tires.

Price: $10 – $80

Tire Valve Extender

A valve extender is an accessory used to extend the length of the valve on a tire.

For some scooters, this is not necessary because the valve is long enough, but on deep-rimmed wheels, the valves need to be extended so that they connect to the air pump/inflator.

Price: $5 – $10

Tire Sealant

Tire sealant is a viscous liquid that’s used to coat the inside of tires.

If one of your tires becomes punctured the sealant flows into the hole, seals it, and prevents air from escaping.

Some tires can be bought with the sealant already installed, but it’s more commonly added as an additional accessory where it’s available in a bottle and can be applied through the valve of each tire.

Price: $20 – $30

Tires For Varying Terrain

Whether you plan to ride on the road or venture off the beaten path, different types of tires can be installed to better suit your needs.

Most notably, different tread patterns provide varying levels of grip and make a tire more or less suitable for certain types of terrain. Some can even prevent damage and protect against flats.

If you want to take advantage of fast top speeds, slick racing tires and their traction-loving tread will be perfect.

For riding in the city, street-grade tires that have a shallow tread pattern provide lots of contact with the road and are harder wearing than racing tires.

For all-terrain riding, hybrid tires are a great choice thanks to their middle-ground design that strikes a balance between street and off-road tread.

If riding off-road is more your thing, then the deep knobbly tread pattern of off-road tires is recommended – especially for maintaining traction over sand, gravel, and dirt tracks.

Similarly, for riding in winter, specialist snow tires with their thick knobbly tread and metal studs are essential.

And finally, if your scooter already has tubeless tires, but you want to avoid punctures, then a pair of no-flat tires could be the ones for you. They have thicker outer walls and the inside is coated with a self-healing sealant. If the tires get penetrated by any sharp objects, the sealant will flow into the holes to prevent air from escaping.

Price: $30 – $100

Further Information:

Electric Scooter Tires: A Beginner’s Guide

Fast chargers and additional (detachable) batteries

Battery & Charger Accessories

Fast Charger

Among other benefits, fast chargers allow you to speed up the charge rate of your scooter’s battery by adjusting the amperage. Most fast chargers with this feature offer you a range of amperage values, ranging from 1A to 6.5A. The higher the amps, the faster your scooter will charge.

By comparison to standard chargers, which typically operate at 2A, those of the fast variety can cut charge times in half.

However, you should only use a fast charger if it’s compatible and has been designed for use with your scooter. If you use the wrong charger, you risk permanent damage to the battery. It’s also worth noting that slower, standard chargers are better for the overall health of your battery, but if you’re in a rush a fast charger is a useful option.

Price: $100 – $180

Further Information:

Electric Scooters Chargers: How to Charge, Expert Tips & Fast Chargers

Detachable Battery

Not all scooter batteries are detachable but for those that are you can purchase an additional one.

This is ideal if your battery is damaged, no longer performing at its optimum, or if you want to be able to swap between two to increase your maximum mileage.

Some brands offer additional batteries for certain scooters and it’s essential that you only use the battery designed for your specific model.

Price: $200 – $500

Further Information:

Best Electric Scooters With Removable Batteries

Bags (pouches), baskets, and storage trunks

Storage Accessories

Storage Pouch

A storage pouch can be clipped onto the stem or handlebars of most electric scooters. It’s an excellent way of carrying personal items without having to use a rucksack or your pockets. They also come in handy when you need to take air pumps, tools, and other scooter accessories with you.

The benefit of these is that they’re centrally mounted so they don’t affect your balance – though, I would err on the side of caution to not fill them with anything too heavy.

Price: $30 – $50

Scooter Satchel

Some scooters come with satchels that look like large holdalls. By placing the straps over your shoulders, you can carry your scooter for longer distances than if you were to hold it with your hands.

Price: $30 and $150

Basket

Scooter baskets are rigid storage options with an open top. They can be fixed to the handlebars of an electric scooter or attached to the rear of the deck. They’re similar in appearance to push bike baskets but are usually smaller to prevent their contents from unbalancing the scooter.

Although most have a rigid frame, some are made from fabric and can be closed via a zip.

Price: $40 – $60

Further Information:

Electric Scooters With Baskets

Trunk

Electric scooter trunks are secure storage boxes that can be attached to the back of a scooter's deck and hang over the rear wheel.

They’re generally made of reinforced rigid plastic, can be locked, and are completely waterproof. Because they sit over the rear wheel, they can carry heavy items without unbalancing the scooter.

The trunk for the EMOVE Cruiser measures 11 (L) x 9 (W) x 3.5 (H) inches and most other models are similar in size.

Price: $100 – $120

Headlights, safety lights, wing lights, and LED Strips

Light Accessories

Clip-On Headlights

Unfortunately, the vast majority of electric scooters are fitted with insufficient lights. Most headlights aren’t bright enough or are mounted too low, meaning they’re unable to illuminate the way ahead.

As a result, it’s recommended to purchase additional clip-on lights if you want to ride at night.

They can be quickly and securely attached to the handlebars, are battery-powered, and recharge via a USB cable.

For well-lit or partly-lit environments, we recommend using a headlight with at least 800 lumens. However, for extremely dark areas, we recommend at least 1000 lumens.

Price: $60 – $80

Further Information:

Electric Scooter Lights: 2 Best LED Headlights & How to Choose

Rear Safety LEDs

Most electric scooters are equipped with taillights, but they tend to be low, meaning that they aren’t at the eye level of other road users.

If you plan to ride at night, it’s best to attach a safety light to your backpack, helmet, or clothes to make you more visible.

Some safety lights will come with one setting where they stay illuminated, while others will be configured with multiple modes that include flashing roadside warnings, slow fading, and pulsating effects.

Price: $20 – $30

Turn Signals (Wing Lights)

While some premium electric scooters come with turn signals already built into their lighting rig, others don’t and it’s here where wing lights are useful.

Wing lights are small mushroom-shaped LEDs that slide into either end of your handlebars. Once inserted, they can be used as indicators where they flash following the tap of a button or used as permanent sidelights.

Price: $20 – $40

LED Strips

To remain visible while riding at night you need a good headlight and taillight, but the scooters that boast the most eye-catching setups are those that have deck LEDs. Not only do they illuminate the entire chassis of a scooter, but they elevate its aesthetic with a Fast & Furious-esque design.

Available in a range of customizable colors, they can be securely attached to the underside of your scooter’s deck with an adhesive strip and are powered by a battery box.

Price: $15 – $30

Alarms, GPS trackers,, fingerprint readers, and locks

Anti-Theft Accessories

Lock

Locks are a great way to secure your scooter and prevent it from being stolen.

U-locks and folding locks tend to be the best options thanks to their ability to resist hydraulic pressure, drilling, cutting, sawing, and picking from high-performance tools.

Price: $50 – $100

Further Information:

Electric Scooters Locks: Best Locks & How to Lock an Electric Scooter

Alarm

Few scooters come with built-in alarm systems, and for those that do, they tend to only emit a beeping noise that’s far too quiet to deter thieves.

Luckily, you can buy alarm systems that have much more powerful sirens. They often include a remote key fob and once armed, respond to vibration or being moved.

Price: $15 – $30

GPS Trackers & Apple Air Tags

Apple air tags and other GPS trackers are small devices that can be planted on your scooter to make it trackable via an app.

You can hide the tracker under the deck or in another inconspicuous place.

Used alongside other security features like an alarm and a lock, the tracker will give you peace of mind. Even if someone steals your scooter, you’ll be able to see where it is and report its location to the police.

Price: $25 – $100

Key-Lock Ignition

In the same way that cars use keys, an electric scooter ignition does the same.

Without the key, your scooter will be immobilized. They can, however, be picked and aren't the most secure anti-theft deterrents.

Price: $15 – $30

NFC Card Reader

A step up from key-lock ignitions are NFC card readers. Because they rely on near-field communication – a proximity-based wireless communication standard – they can’t be picked.

The reader is built into a scooter’s display console and it’s here where you can wave a pre-programmed card in front of it to unlock the scooter.

Price: $60 – $80

Fingerprint Reader

A fingerprint reader is a security device that’ll unlock your scooter and allow it to be powered on when the correct biometric data has been detected on the sensor pad.

This adds an extra layer of security and is considered to be more effective than systems that rely on keys or cards. While keys and cards can be stolen or copied, the only person that can unlock a fingerprint reader is you.

These systems are fairly easy to install, particularly if you have a compatible display console. For example, the MiniMotors fingerprint reader is directly compatible with the EY3 Minimotors display.

Price: $100 – $150

Helmets, gloves, upper and lower-body protection

Safety Gear Accessories

Safety gear is an absolute must when riding an electric scooter. Falling, no matter the speed, can have serious consequences unless you’re properly protected.

To find out more, check out our guide to electric scooter safety gear.

Further Information:

Electric Scooter Safety Gear

The post Electric Scooter Accessories: Upgrade Your Scooter appeared first on Electric Scooter Insider.

Electric Scooter Tires: A Beginner’s Guide

Josh Frisby — Sat, 21 Jan 2023 17:45:57 +0000

From solid rubber to pneumatics, street to off-road tread, and size to shape, there are a lot of factors that determine the performance of an electric scooter based on its tires.

In this guide, we're going to run through the different types of tires, help you find the right kind of tread for your specific needs, and explain how varying tire profiles affect ride quality and performance.

We'll also share expert tips on how to prevent flats, as well as step-by-step guides on how to fix, replace, and upgrade your tires.

Tire Types

From pneumatic to honeycomb, learn about different types of tires.

Tire Tread

Learn how different tire treads perform across varying terrain.

Tire Size & Shape

Discover how size and shape affect ride quality and performance.

Causes of Flat Tires

Learn about common causes of flat tires.

How to Prevent Flats

Discover the steps you can take to prevent flat tires.

How to Fix Flats

Step-by-step guides on how to fix and change damaged tires.

Tires Types: Which is Best?

Air-Filled (Pneumatic)

Air-filled tires are the most common type of tire found on electric scooters. They’re widely considered to be the best because they provide good grip and are excellent at absorbing shocks and vibrations.

You’re most probably familiar with air-filled tires because they’re used on many other vehicles, including bikes, motorbikes, and cars. However, not all are made equal.

Inner Tube

These tires have a protective outer tire and an air-filled inner tube. They’re easy to repair because the inner tube can be quickly patched or replaced.

Tubeless

Like cars, tubeless electric scooter tires have a thick exterior wall that has an airtight seal against the rim of the wheel hub. They’re tougher than those with inner tubes but are harder to repair if you get a flat.

No Flat Tubeless

These borrow the same design as tubeless tires, but inside is a thick gel-like coating that protects against punctures and flats.

If the tire gets penetrated, the gel flows into the hole to seal the gap and prevent air from escaping.

Solid

Solid tires are most often found on kids' scooters, as well as those that are destined for the budget market. However, a handful of premium models are equipped with them for the purpose of low-maintenance design.

Thanks to their solid interior they never get punctured or go flat. However, two major drawbacks are that they offer little to no shock absorption and that they have significantly less traction – especially on wet surfaces.

Solid Rubber

Like skateboard wheels, these are completely solid, and heavier than air-filled tires. There’s very little shock absorption and traction is poor.

Honeycomb

These are rubber tires with a network of holes to reduce their weight and increase shock absorption. The idea is that the air pockets allow the tire to flex, therefore delivering a more cushioned ride, whilst also reaping the rewards of a low-maintenance design.

However, despite their attempt at being more cushioned, ride quality is only fractionally better than their solid counterparts.

Foam

Filled with polyurethane foam, these are solid but lighter than rubber tires. Like honeycomb tires, they are designed to try and alleviate the lack of shock absorption. However, they have very little give so comfort is still an issue and traction remains low.

Tire Tread: What’s Right For Me?

The tread of a tire is the grippy surface that maintains traction with the ground.

Different tread patterns provide varying levels of grip and make a tire more or less suitable for different terrain. Some treads can even prevent damage to your tire and protect against flats.

Street

Street tires are slick but with a light pattern. This means they grip well on the flat surface of the road and are harder to wear than racing tires.

However, the shallow pattern means that they don’t cope well with loose or gritty terrain.

Hybrid (Terrain-Agnostic)

Hybrid tires are moderately patterned with a deep tread. They’re suitable for a range of different terrains stretching from well-maintained urban roads to country tracks.

Off-Road

Designed specifically to be taken off-road, these tires feature three-dimensional tread patterns that are knobbly. This helps them to maintain traction on loose surfaces.

They can also be used while riding over streets and paved environments, but because of their shape, they limit the scooter from hitting its top speed. They can be loud, too.

Snow

Perfect for extreme conditions, snow tires are studded, knobbly, and heavily patterned. The deep tread combines with metal studs to help them grip surfaces covered in snow and ice.

Racing

Racing tires are slick and have no pattern. This means that the entire surface is in contact with the ground to ensure extreme traction at all times.

While these are ideal for fast-paced and aggressive riding, they’re less suitable for everyday use because they wear out quickly and don’t perform well on rough surfaces.

Tire Size & Shape

Understanding Tire Size

Common Tire Sizes

Scooter tires come in a range of shapes and sizes. Generally, cheaper, less powerful scooters have smaller wheels and larger more expensive models have bigger wheels. The most common tire sizes are:

Tire Height (Inches)	Tire Width (Inches)
8	2
8.5	2
10	2.5
10	3
10	3.25
11	3.5

Short vs Tall: Pros and Cons

The height of a wheel influences the stability and performance of a scooter.

Tall wheels provide greater ground clearance, a smoother ride, and better momentum. They also roll over bumps and obstacles easier and they don’t sink as much into dirt or other loose terrains. Plus, because they retain inertia better, they coast more, and as a result, lead to greater range over small wheels.

On the other hand, small wheels are generally cheaper to produce and designed for lower-powered scooters. They can be more maneuverable at low speeds, which is why they’re often found on slow-budget models. Unfortunately, though, they have less ground clearance, transmit bumps and jolts to the rider much more severely, and don’t deliver the same level of handling as those that are bigger.

Narrow vs Wide: Pros and Cons

Wide tires have a bigger contact patch with the ground, thereby improving traction for acceleration, braking, and general riding. They also provide more stability.

The downsides are that wider tires require more force to turn from side to side, but they do promise better cornering at speed. Narrow tires are, therefore, more nimble at slow speeds but don’t provide as much stability, and are more likely to lose traction in wet conditions.

The Correlation Between Tire Size and Motor Power

As tire size increases so too does motor power.

Motors are mounted in the scooter’s wheel hubs, so the size of the tire somewhat reflects the size of the motor. For instance, a budget scooter with a small 36V 350W motor may only have tires that measure 8.5 inches in diameter, while an ultra-performance model with 72V 2000W motors may have 11-inch tires. Ultimately, the more powerful the motor/s, the larger the tires.

This is why the scooter community refers to different models by their tire size (i.e. 10-inch or 11-inch) – it's a quick way to categorize performance.

Understanding Tire Shape

Rounded

Tires with a rounded front-on profile make a scooter more nimble.

Contrary to popular belief, you don’t rotate the handlebars when you want to turn, but rather lean in the direction that you want the scooter to go. While leaning, the scooter goes from a 90-degree upright angle to a 50 to 70-degree tilt.

As the scooter rolls over, so do the tires, and it’s here where a rounded profile lends itself to better handling than those that are square in their design. Because the tire is rounded, it ensures that a large surface area remains in contact with the road, meaning you can lean into the corners while maintaining traction. This is vital for fast electric scooters since it means you have as much control in the turn as you do on the straight.

Square

Tires with a square front-on profile provide a wide contact patch with the ground while riding in a straight line. This makes them ideal for fast acceleration and quick braking.

However, square tires don’t provide as good handling as those that have a rounded profile. As you lean into corners, they roll onto their edges, meaning grip is lost. Under these circumstances, square tires can slide out from underneath you.

Common Causes of Flat Tires

Over-Inflation

Over-inflated tires can cause a host of issues, including:

Smaller contact patch, meaning less traction
Less shock absorption since the tire is unable to soak up bumps
Compromised handling
Reduced braking performance
Uneven tread wear since the center of the tire bows out and wears first
Risk of a blowout, which could lead to an accident

Under-Inflation

Under-inflation is one of the leading causes of electric scooter tire failure. If tire pressure is too low, it can cause many issues, including:

Increased rolling resistance, and therefore increased fuel consumption as a result of the motors working harder
Sidewalls of the tires can become misshapen and bulge out, leading to uneven tread wear
Compromised handling, especially steering
Reduced braking performance
Excessive heat build-up
Reduces the load that the scooter can carry

Improper Installation

If a tire is incorrectly installed it increases the chance of getting a flat.

For inner tubes, incorrect installation can cause them to become tangled or bunched up, thereby putting pressure on certain areas of the tube and tire.

For tubeless tires, it's vital to make sure that their inner edge is intact and fits closely with the rim.

And the final thing you need to be mindful of is the direction of a tire’s rotation. Installing a tire backward will result in it wearing down faster. It’s also detrimental to your scooter’s overall performance since the tires aren’t able to grip the road as well.

Most tires will indicate rotation via an arrow, but if your tires don’t have this, then you need to make sure that the tread is always pointing forward.

Punctures From Sharp Objects

Sharp objects such as nails, glass, and even rocks are the most common causes of flat tires.

They quickly damage the tire by either splitting the tread or penetrating through it.

Strong Impacts From Aggressive Riding

When a tubeless tire hits a rock or curb, it can break the seal between the tire and the rim. For tires with inner tubes, if it’s hit hard enough, the impact can create enough pressure to burst the tube.

Over-Heating

Overheating is either caused by improper inflation, or due to riding conditions (i.e. a hot summer day).

In general, tires lose or gain 1 PSI for every 10℉ change in temperature. As previously discussed, over and under-inflation can lead to significant tire damage, so if the temperature does spike then be sure to adjust your tire’s PSI accordingly.

If you don’t adjust the pressure and let it build as a result of overheating, tires can become distorted, leading to weak patches.

General Wear & Tear

As tires age, they get worn down and can develop cracks. After a while, these damaged areas can work their way deeper in the tread and eventually let air escape – this is most likely to happen when a worn tire bead is no longer resting on the rim as it should.

Similarly, a malfunction or leak in the valve can be the culprit and slowly let the air out of the tire.

How to Prevent Flat Tires

Inflate Tires to the Correct Pressure

PSI stands for pounds per square inch and is the measurement used for tire pressure. The higher the PSI, the more pressurized the air is inside the tire.

Every tire comes with a recommended PSI value that can be found in the scooter’s user manual. We recommend inflating your tires to this value because properly inflated tires are less likely to get damaged and have been configured to get the best performance from the scooter.

Add Tire Sealant / Slime

Sealant can be squeezed inside a tire via its valve. Once injected it coats the inner surface, meaning it flows into punctures to prevent air from escaping. It’s best to use tire sealant as a preemptive measure.

Install Tire Liners

Tire liners are made to fit between your tire and the inner tube. If anything penetrates through the outer shell of the tire, the liner provides added protection to prevent the tube from being punctured.

Clean Regularly

Regularly removing dirt and debris that’s accumulated on your tires will reduce their wear and get rid of any sharp items that may have become attached.

Reduce Sudden Braking & Wheel Spinning

Sudden braking and wheel spinning heat up tires making them more susceptible to uneven wear, which can eventually lead to flats.

Solid tires can even become deformed if they’re mistreated. Excessive heat build-up combined with skidding can wear away at the tread that’s in contact with the road.

Electric scooters with anti-lock braking systems (ABS) help prevent tire wear by sensing when the wheels are about to lock and applying optimal braking pressure to prevent them from skidding.

Replace Old Or Worn Tires

The older a tire is, the more likely it’ll develop a crack or flat. It’s essential that you regularly check your tires and replace any that look old or worn out. A good indicator of this is if the tires are going bald. By this, we mean inspecting the tread pattern to see if it’s too low.

How to Fix Flat Tires

How to Fix an Inner Tube (and Outer Tire)

Deflate the tire
Unscrew the bolts that hold the axle to the forks
Ease the wheel out from between the forks.
Remove any brake units from around the wheel (if necessary)
Line the rim of the wheel with warm soapy water.
Now use a tire spoon to pry the tire off the wheel hub.
Once the outer tire, is off the inner tube should come away from it with ease.
Reinflate the tube and inspect it to see where the air is escaping.
If it’s hard to find the puncture, submerge it in water and look for where the bubbles are coming from.
Mark the puncture with a permanent marker then deflate the tube.
Use sandpaper to scrape the area around the puncture.
Clean the area with an alcohol wipe and leave to dry.
Position an adhesive patch over the puncture and press it down to ensure it’s sealed.
Put the tube back into the tire.
Slide the tire over the wheel hub and complete steps 4, 3, and 2 in reverse. (At this point, the wheel should be attached to the scooter as it was when you started this process).
Reinflate the tube and tighten the valve cap.

To help you with this step-by-step guide, take a look at the video below. While your scooter may be different from the one shown, the fundamental process of fixing/replacing an inner tube is shown.

While the above is the recommended method to repair inner tubes, you can also take preemptive measures by installing tire sealant too. To do this, follow the steps below:

Once you have completed the steps above, deflate the tire.
Use a valve core removal tool (included in the box when you buy tire sealant) to remove the core from the valve and gain access to the interior of the inner tube.
Remove the cap from the tire sealant to allow it to flow.
Squeeze the prescribed amount of sealant into the tube.
Reinstall the valve core with the removal tool.
Reinflate the tire.
Spin the tire to evenly distribute the sealant.

How to Change a Tubeless Tire

Deflate the tire
Unscrew the bolts that hold the axle to the forks
Ease the wheel out from between the forks.
Remove any brake units from around the wheel (if necessary)
Line the rim of the wheel with warm soapy water.
Now use a tire spoon to pry the tire off the wheel hub.
Once the tire is free, it can now be repaired or replaced.
To get the new tire on the wheel, use a tire spoon to hook the lip of it over the rim of the wheel hub.
After completing the step above, you should be left with a tire that is half on/half off the wheel hub.
Now, you need to get three or four zip ties.
Feed the zip ties from one side of the tire through to the other. Make sure to spread them around the tire.
Squeeze the tire and have another person tighten the zip ties. This will bunch the tire together, making it far easier to slide over the wheel hub. You may need to use a tire spoon to leverage the rest of the tire onto the hub.
Then, once the tire is sitting over the hub, cut one side of the zip ties, and pull the remaining parts of them through the other side.
Inflate the tire.
Reattach the wheel to the scooter.

To help you with this step-by-step guide, take a look at the video below. While your scooter may be different from the one shown, the fundamental process of replacing a tubeless tire is shown.

How to Change a Solid Tire

Before you begin the process of replacing a solid tire, you first need to fill a bucket with hot water and lay the new tire in it. This will make it more pliable for when you need to stretch it over the wheel hub.
Unscrew the bolts that hold the axle to the forks.
Ease the wheel out from between the forks.
Remove any brake units from around the wheel (if necessary)
Line the rim of the wheel with warm soapy water.
Now use a tire spoon to pry the tire off the wheel hub. Or, if your tire has air pockets, poke a screwdriver through them to leverage the tire away from the hub. You can make this process a little easier if you use a heat gun or hair dryer to heat the tire.
Once the tire is free, it can now be replaced.
Next, get the new tire that’s been sitting in a bucket of hot water.
Use a clamp or vice to hold one side of the tire and wheel together. This will ensure it doesn’t move or pop out as you leverage the rest of the tire onto the hub.
With a tire spoon, go around the tire to pop it over the hub. Be careful to not apply too much pressure because you can damage the rim.
Make sure that all the edges line up correctly with the rim.
Reattach the wheel to the scooter.

To help you with this step-by-step guide, take a look at the video below. While your scooter may be different from the one shown, the fundamental process of replacing a solid tire is shown.

Why You Should Choose an Electric Scooter With Split Rims

Changing your scooter's tires can be a long and complicated job; however, if your scooter has split rims it will take half the time and be less stressful.

A split wheel rim can be unbolted and pulled apart, letting the tire slide off the hub more easily. If the scooter doesn’t have a split rim, then you have to forcefully pry the tire on/off the rim using a tire spoon.

To see this in action, watch the video below (04:03-04:30):

Where to Find Replacement Tires

The first place to check when searching for replacement tires is the website of the brand or retailer that you purchased your scooter from.

To help you find the correct parts, we've listed some popular scooter brands below and linked to retailers that sell tires for each.

Scooter Brand	Replacement Tires
Apollo	Get Tires
Dualtron	Get Tires
EMOVE	Get Tires
Fluid	Get Tires
GoTrax	Get Tires
INOKIM	Get Tires
Kaabo	Get Tires
Mercane	Get Tires
NAMI	Get Tires
Turboant	Get Tires
Varla	Get Tires

FAQs

How Many Miles Do Electric Scooter Tires Last?

Based on expert data, most electric scooter tires last between 1,500 and 3,000 miles. However, it depends on how well you maintain them, how regularly you use them, and your riding style.

When Should You Replace an Electric Scooter Tire?

Unlike cars, there are no legal requirements for electric scooter tires to have a minimum tread depth.

As a result, you should replace your tires based on their condition.

Can I Swap My Tires With Those From a Different Brand?

You can swap your scooter tires for those of a different brand as long as they are the correct size. Most scooter tire manufacturers use standard sizing so it should be relatively easy to find the correct replacement.

– CST vs PMT: Which is Best?

Cheng Shin Tires (CST) are made by the world’s largest manufacturer of bicycle and scooter tires. As a result, the vast majority of electric scooters are equipped with them.

On the other hand, Pauselli Model Tires (PMT) is an Italian manufacturer of high-performance tires. We tested PMT tires on the NAMI Burn-e 2 and the difference in performance was night and day. They had outstandingly good grip, wheel spin was controlled, and the scooter felt glued to the ground, propelling you forward and around sharp corners with a complete sense of control.

Can I Swap Solid Tires For Pneumatic Tires? And Vice Versa

Most scooters that are equipped with solid tires have been designed in this way for a specific reason, and consequently, they shouldn’t be swapped for pneumatic ones.

However, in some cases, you can swap them but it’s always best to check with the manufacturer. The same can be said for swapping pneumatic tires for solid ones.

Can I Swap Smaller Tires For Larger Tires? And Vice Versa

Smaller tires can’t be swapped for those that are larger, and larger tires can’t be swapped for smaller ones. This is because the chassis of each scooter is designed to fit a specific size of wheel and tire.

Can You Have Different Tires for the Front and Back?

You can have different tires for the front and back wheels of your scooter; however, this is only recommended if this configuration was already in place when you purchased the scooter.

A common option is for manufacturers to equip their scooters with an air-filled tire at the front and a solid rubber one at the rear. Rear tires bear more of the rider’s weight and as a result, are more susceptible to flats. So, by using a configuration that mixes the best of both worlds, it significantly reduces the chances of getting a flat, while still benefiting from the shock-absorption capabilities of the air-filled tire. Examples of scooters with mixed configurations like this, include the Horizon and EMOVE Touring.

Do All Electric Scooters Come With the Option of Using Tires With Different Treads?

Only some scooters come with the option of swapping tires for those with different treads. For example:

8-inch tires tend to have street tread.
10-inch tires commonly come with street, hybrid, or off-road tread.
11-inch tires come with racing, street, or off-road tread.

As you can see there’s a correlation between tire size and tread. This is because scooters with larger wheels tend to harness more power, making them suitable for a wider range of terrains and use cases.

How Much Do Electric Scooter Tires Cost?

Electric scooter tires can cost anywhere between $20 and $100.

To give you an idea of what different tires cost, see the cost tables below:

8 Inch Tire Costs:

Tire Size	Tire Type	Tire Tread	Price
8 Inches	Solid	Street	$20 – $30
8 Inches	Pneumatic (Inner-Tube)	Street	$20 – $40

10 Inch Tire Costs:

Tire Size	Tire Type	Tire Tread	Price
10 Inches	Pneumatic (Inner-Tube)	Street	$30 – $50
10 Inches	Pneumatic (Tubeless)	Street	$30 – $50
10 Inches	Pneumatic (Inner-Tube)	Hybrid	$40 – $50
10 Inches	Pneumatic (Inner-Tube)	Off-Road	$50 – $60

11 Inch Tire Costs:

Tire Size	Tire Type	Tire Tread	Price
11 Inches	Pneumatic (Tubeless)	Street	$40 – $60
11 Inches	Pneumatic (Tubeless)	Off-Road	$40 – $60
11 Inches	Pneumatic (Tubeless)	Racing	$50 – $70
11 Inches	Pneumatic (Tubeless & Never-Flat)	Street	$50 – $100
11 Inches	Pneumatic (Tubeless & Never-Flat)	Off-Road	$50 – $100

The post Electric Scooter Tires: A Beginner’s Guide appeared first on Electric Scooter Insider.

Electric Scooter Chargers: How to Charge, Expert Tips & Fast Chargers

Josh Frisby — Fri, 20 Jan 2023 15:26:07 +0000

From making sure that your charger has the correct voltage and amps, to following proper charging protocol, there are some simple steps that you can take to significantly prolong the battery life of your electric scooter.

In this guide, you'll learn how to charge, see our recommendations of the best fast chargers, and discover how you can achieve optimal charging performance.

How to Charge

Follow our step-by-step guide on how to charge.

Best Fast Chargers

See which fast chargers we recommend.

Using Fast Chargers

Learn how to use fast chargers safely and calculate charge time.

Charging Tips

Discover how you can achieve optimal charging performance.

Charging Costs

Learn how to calculate the cost of charging an electric scooter.

Charging FAQs

The most common electric scooter charging questions answered.

How to Charge

Two Important Numbers You Need to Know Before Charging

Voltage (V)

Voltage, commonly referred to as electric pressure, is the measured strength of electricity flowing through a circuit.

The voltage of a charger must match the voltage of a battery. Those with higher voltages can charge at a faster rate than those of a lower voltage.

For example, an electric scooter that has a 52V battery requires a 52V charger.

Typically, electric scooter chargers fall into one of these six buckets: 36V, 48V, 52V, 60V, 72V, and 84V.

Amperage (A)

Amperage is the measurement of electric current in amperes (amps).

One ampere tells you how much electrical charge is flowing past any point in a circuit in one second.

The higher the amperage, the higher the electrical charge that can flow into your battery, and the quicker it will charge.

Most electric scooter chargers have an amperage of 2A, but they can be higher. For instance, a fast charger may reach up to 6.5A.

How To Charge An Electric Scooter: Step-by-Step Guide

Charging your electric scooter may seem straightforward, but to ensure an optimal charge cycle and reduce the chance of damage to the charger or battery, you need to follow the steps below correctly.

1. Plug the Charger Into a Power Outlet

Start by plugging the charger into a power outlet.

It’s important to do this before connecting the charger to your electric scooter to protect it from damage.

Inside a charger is a capacitor – a device that stores electrical energy, has two terminals, and draws current from the input when the output switch is turned on. When a charger isn’t plugged into a power supply it has 0 volts. If you were to connect the charger to your scooter's battery first, it could discharge current into the capacitor. This can result in sparking and cause damage to the charger.

So, by plugging the charger into the power outlet first, you’re able to bring the voltage of the capacitor closer to the battery. This means that when you plug the charger into the scooter’s charging ports, the difference in voltage between both the battery and charger will be much smaller, thereby preventing any undue damage.

2. Connect the Charger To the Scooter's Charging Port

Once the charger is plugged into a power outlet, it’s time to connect the opposing end to your scooter.

However, before you connect it, you should always make sure that the scooter is switched off, and then plug it in.

Most charging ports have protective covers that need to be removed first. Once the cover is off, check for any dust and debris. If it’s clear, push the connector into the port. If your scooter has two charging ports you can use two chargers simultaneously to achieve a quicker charge time.

>It’s also important not to force the connector into the charging port. The vast majority of chargers come with connectors that are shaped and keyed, so they only go in one way.

3. Check For a Red Light on the Charger

As with most rechargeable devices, it's always best to check for the small red LED charging light to make sure that the charger is connected correctly and that the charging process has begun.

4. Wait For Your Scooter to Charge

Once plugged in and charging, you need to wait for the battery to reach your desired level of charge.

You can either check your scooter’s user manual to get an idea of how long that will take, or use our simple equation (further down the guide) to determine charge time.

5. Turn the Charger Off and Disconnect It When a Green Light Shows on the Charger

When the red light goes green the battery is fully charged.

While most electric scooters are equipped with controllers – smart devices that monitor and regulate all of the electrical parts of a scooter – depending on your specific model, you may need to pay close attention to the charge level of your battery to prevent over-voltage (i.e. over-charging).

Typically, a controller will shut down the power supply when the battery voltage exceeds a preset level, thereby protecting it from over-charging as a result of being left plugged in for long periods (i.e. overnight).

However, for scooters that don’t have controllers with battery management systems, it’s always best to stop charging when the battery reaches 80%, or if you need every last drop of energy, immediately unplug the charger once it turns green. Doing so will significantly extend battery life.

Best Fast Chargers

If you aren’t able to purchase a fast charger from your scooter’s manufacturer or retailer, it can be challenging trying to find one by yourself. To help, we’ve compiled a short list of the best fast chargers to give you a head start:

48V Fast Charger

48V 5A

$129.00

52V Fast Charger

52V 5A

$129.00

60V Fast Charger

60V 5A

$139.00

72V Fast Charger

72V 6.5A

$179.00

Fast Charger Features That You Need

The best fast chargers should have a range of useful features, including:

Input Voltage Control

The input voltage control allows you to choose the input voltage based on your location (i.e. 110V or 240V). For example, in the US it will be 110V, but in the UK it’s 230V.

Charge Rate (Amperage) Control

This is a feature that allows you to slow or speed up the charge rate by adjusting the amperage of the charger. Most fast chargers with this feature offer you a range of amperage values from 1A to 6.5A. The higher the amps, the faster your scooter will charge.

Charge Depth Control

This is a useful feature that allows you to set the point at which the charger stops charging.

For example, instead of always charging up to 100%, you can set the charger to automatically stop at 80% or 90%.

Automatic Charge Optimization

When your charger is set to reach 100%, it will automatically lower the amperage when it reaches 80%. This optimizes the charge cycle and protects the battery.

Display

A display shows you the amperage and voltage being used during the charging process.

How to Find the Correct Charger For Your Scooter

The best way to find a charger that’s compatible with your scooter is to either buy one directly from your scooter’s manufacturer or retailer. However, if that isn’t possible, here are some useful tips to help you choose the right one.

Operating Limits: Using the Correct Voltage and Amperage

The voltage of your charger must match the voltage of your battery. The amperage, on the other hand, can either match the value of the standard charger that came with your scooter or be higher since this is responsible for a faster charge.

While this is relatively straightforward, it’s essential that you use a charger with the correct voltage and amperage. Getting it wrong could result in a failed recharge or even damage to the battery.

As a rule of thumb, we only recommend using a fast charger on batteries with capacities that exceed 15Ah. Similarly, we recommend a maximum amperage of 4A.

Connector: Making Sure the Charge Connector Matches the Port

Not all chargers are made equal. Various connectors are used for different electric scooters.

You need to check that your new charger matches your scooter’s charging port. The most common connectors are:

GX16-3P:

This is a circular three-pin connector with a 12.44mm diameter.

It’s made up of three ports that receive three prongs. There’s also a threaded metal locking ring to hold the connector secure to the battery port.

This type of port is extremely common across commuter, performance, high-performance, and ultra-performance electric scooters.

M16-3P:

The M16 is a circular three-pin connector that’s similar in appearance to the GX16 but measures 12.5mm and doesn’t have a metal locking ring.

These are becoming more popular on electric scooters since they have raised plastic to isolate the pins and prevent arcing.

XLR:

Both 3-pin and 4-pin XLR connectors are found on electric scooters.

The 3-pin version is commonly found on a wide range of models, while the 4-pin version is only seen on a few more recent scooters.

XT60:

Also known as a bullet connector because of its unusual shape, the XT60 is small and has two ports.

There are only a couple of electric scooters that use these connectors.

DC Coaxial:

A DC Coaxial is a barrel-style connector that’s found on many electrical items including a range of electric scooters. It has a single central prong.

These are common on budget scooters.

USB:

Although not common, some low-power scooters can be charged via a USB port.

Using Fast Chargers

Charge Settings: Optimal Configuration

Fast charging at a high amperage is more convenient, but it can stress the battery out and take a toll on its long-term performance.

To speed up your battery recharge without excessive heat generation or degradation, we recommend charging at a maximum of 4A.

Battery Size: Can Fast Chargers Be Used On All Batteries?

Fast chargers are only suitable for use on larger batteries with capacities that are equal to or exceed 15Ah.

Any smaller than this and a fast charger can put too much pressure on the battery, causing it to overheat.

Battery Management System: Keeping the Battery Healthy While Charging

A battery management system (BMS) monitors the use of the battery to ensure optimal performance.

By protecting the battery against over-voltage, low-voltage, over-discharge, over-current, and over-temperature, the system keeps the battery operating within set parameters.

Examples of this include disconnecting the battery from the electrical load provided by the charger when it senses that the internal temperature of the battery has exceeded a safe value.

On the other hand, a poorly-made scooter that lacks a BMS will be at risk of overheating since there’s no system to throttle the electrical load.

Pros & Cons of Fast Chargers

Pros:

They can halve the charging time of your scooter.
High-quality fast chargers provide a range of variable charging options to ensure you can tailor the changing process to your battery for optimal charge cycles.

Cons:

In some cases, using a fast charger can void your electric scooter warranty. However, it’s highly unlikely that manufacturers will be able to detect their use.
The faster you charge the more heat that’s generated. Heat is one of the biggest causes of battery cell degradation, so it’s extremely important that you get the balance between slow and fast charging right.

How to Calculate Charge Time: A Simple Equation

Calculating the amount of time it will take your battery to charge is easy.

First, you need to know the capacity of the battery in amp-hours (Ah). This can be found on the scooter or the retailer’s website.

Second, you need to know the amp (A) rating of the charger. This can be found on the charger.

Then, once you have both figures, use this equation:

Amp-hours of the battery / Amperage of charger = Total charge time

For example: 10Ah / 2A = 5 hours

It’s important to remember that this will only give you an approximate charge time and should be used as a rule of thumb. When your battery reaches 80% charge, the charger will automatically lower the amperage to optimize the charge cycle. Therefore, the last 20% of the charging process is slower.

Charge Time Table (Based on Popular Battery Sizes & Charge Rates)

Battery (Ah)	1A	2A	3A	4A
5.2 Ah	5.2 hr	2.6 hr	1.7 hr	1.3 hr
7.5 Ah	7.5 hr	3.75 hr	>2.5 hr	1.9 hr
10.4 Ah	10.4 hr	5.2 hr	3.5 hr	2.6 hr
13 Ah	13 hr	6.5 hr	4.3 hr	3.3 hr
15.6 Ah	15.6 hr	7.8 hr	5.2 hr	3.9 hr
18.2 Ah	18.2 hr	9.1 hr	6.1 hr	4.6 hr
20.8 Ah	20.8 hr	10.4 hr	6.9 hr	5.2 hr
23.4 Ah	23.4 hr	11.7 hr	7.8 hr	>5.9 hr
24.5 Ah	24.5 hr	12.25 hr	8.2 hr	6.1 hr
28 Ah	28 hr	14 hr	9.3 hr	7 hr
30 Ah	30 hr	15 hr	10 hr	7.5 hr
32 Ah	32 hr	16 hr	10.7 hr	8 hr
35 Ah	35 hr	17.5 hr	11.7 hr	8.8 hr

Charging Tips: How to Ensure Optimal Performance

Charge Cycles

Aside from prolonging battery life by charging at a slower rate, there are a few other steps you can take to ensure optimal charge cycle performance.

Prolong Battery Life Up to 4X By Using the 80/30 Rule (Depending on Your Battery)

Depending on your electric scooter, you may want to employ the 80/30 charging rule.

By never letting your battery drop below 30% and only charging it to 80%, you can significantly slow its rate of degradation and prolong its life.

This technique is useful for older batteries (especially those made of metal hydroxides) since it’s best to keep them operating within a given range of charge to prolong performance.

However, modern electric scooters use lithium-ion batteries and controllers that are calibrated to work together to prevent over-voltage, low-voltage, and over-discharge. As a result, the controller knows when to limit and stop the charging process to ensure that the battery doesn’t charge beyond a preset level. It also limits the amount of power that can be discharged from the battery to avoid deterioration of the cells.

This means that you can charge your battery to 100% and run it until the power fully depletes, and then recharge again.

Don’t Charge Your Scooter As Fast As Possible Just Because You Can

Fast charging is convenient and you may be tempted to charge your battery as fast as possible. However, the faster you charge it, the hotter it will get, and the quicker it will degrade.

Using the charger that came with your scooter will ensure optimal charging, but if you decide to use a fast charger, we strongly recommend that you don’t exceed a charge rate of 4A.

Don’t Mix a Standard and Fast Charger

If you have both a standard and a fast charger, don’t alternate between them. Choose which one works best for you and stick with it.

Similarly, if you have a scooter with dual charging ports, make sure both chargers are the same (i.e. don't use fast and standard chargers simultaneously).

Avoid Overcharging

Once your battery has finished charging, you should disconnect the charger immediately to prevent overcharging.

Overcharging is when a charger continues to charge a battery once it’s reached 100%. If this happens it can raise the voltage of the battery and cause permanent damage.

In most cases, however, there are protective measures built into chargers, batteries, and controllers to prevent this, but it’s always worth unplugging following a charge in case they fail.

Temperature

Charge the Battery When It’s Between 32 F and 113 F (0 C to 45 C)

Batteries produce an electrical charge via a series of chemical reactions. If the temperature around the battery drops too low or too high, it can affect these reactions.

If you charge the battery when it’s at a temperature between 32 F and 113 F (0 C to 45 C) you’ll reduce the risk of degradation.

Storage

Store Your Scooter at a 40% Charge

A fully discharged battery degrades faster than one with charge, particularly if kept at 0% for an extended period.

As a result, the optimal charge level for storage is 40%. This puts the least strain on the battery and preserves the condition of its cells. After all, it's no coincidence that most batteries arrive from the manufacturer with an approximate 40% charge.

Store Your Scooter In a Cool, Dry Environment

Keeping your scooter in a cool place will protect it against temperature fluctuations that can otherwise damage the battery’s chemical composition.

It’s also necessary to keep it dry to prevent water and condensation from building up and entering the scooter’s circuitry.

Safety

Make Sure Your Electric Scooter and Charger Are Dry, Not Wet

If any part of your scooter – including the battery port – or charger is wet, you must dry it before charging.

A wet battery or charger could cause a short circuit, leading to damage on either part. It also increases the risk of fire and electric shock.

Turn Your Scooter Off While Charging

Keeping your scooter turned off while you charge will ensure that the battery charges correctly.

If turned on, you run the risk of constantly draining and recharging since the battery can discharge power to the scooter’s electrical components at the same time as its being charged. This can lead to faulty charging and even battery damage.

Charging Costs

How Much Are Electric Scooter Chargers?

Standard and fast electric scooter chargers cost between $40 and $180.

Regular Chargers	Cost
36V	$40
48V	$79
52V	$79
60V	$89
72V	$89

Fast Chargers	Cost
36V	N/A
48V	$129
52V	$129
60V	$139
72V	$179

How Much Does It Cost to Charge an Electric Scooter?

To calculate the cost of charging an electric scooter you need to multiply the kilowatt-hour (KWh) value of your scooter’s battery by the cost per kilowatt-hour (kWh) of electricity.

The first step is to identify the watt-hour (Wh) value of your scooter’s battery. To do this, multiply the battery’s voltage (V) by its amp-hours (Ah).

For example: 36V x 10Ah = 360 Wh.

Then, you need to divide the Wh figure by 1,000 to get the kilowatt-hour value.

For example: 360Wh / 1000 = 0.36 kWh.

Once you have completed the steps above, it’s time to multiply the kWh value of your battery by your local electricity rate.

According to Save on Energy, the average residential electricity rate in the U.S. is 15.46 cents per kilowatt-hour.

So, to continue our example: 0.36 kWh x 15.46 cents per kilowatt-hour = $0.06.

Therefore, it costs just $0.06 to charge an electric scooter that has a 36V 10Ah battery. For context, this equates to 25-30 miles of ride time.

Charging FAQs

What Kind of Charger Does an Electric Scooter Use?

Electric scooters can be charged with standard or fast AC to DC chargers.

They can be plugged into your home AC electricity supply and will convert it into DC for use in your scooter’s battery.

Are All Electric Scooter Chargers the Same?

Not all electric scooter chargers are the same. They come in various shapes and sizes with different voltages, amperages, and connectors.

Different scooter models require different chargers, so you need to make sure that you have the correct one before attempting to recharge your battery.

How Many Charge Cycles Does an Electric Scooter Battery Have?

A standard FST battery will deliver anywhere from 200 to 300 charge cycles at peak performance. However, a high-quality name-brand battery – like those from LG, Samsung, and Dynavolt – can reach between 300 and 500 charge cycles before you notice a dip in performance.

Where is the Charging Port on an Electric Scooter?

The charging port on an electric scooter is usually located on or near the battery.

Most batteries are housed in the deck or stem, so you’ll likely find the charging port on the side of the deck or towards the base of the stem.

However, some scooters choose to place the ports on top of the deck or integrate them into the neck of the scooter to ensure there’s no risk of them becoming damaged as a result of side-swiping against curbs and other obstacles.

Can I Charge My Electric Scooter at Home?

Electric scooter chargers are designed to be plugged into standard power sockets. This means you can charge them at home, at work, or anywhere you have access to mains electricity.

Can You Overcharge a Battery?

Most modern scooters come with automatic overcharge protection that will disconnect the charger once the battery reaches 100%.

However, we always recommend that you disconnect your charger as soon as the battery is charged just in case there are any faults, or your scooter is not adequately protected.

What Happens If You Overcharge an Electric Scooter?

If you overcharge your scooter’s battery, the current will continue to flow into the battery, increasing its temperature and degrading the cells. This may cause permanent immediate damage, or simply reduce its lifespan.

Can I Charge My Electric Scooter With a Power Bank?

You can use a power bank to charge your electric scooter. However, you will need to use a charger that matches both the power bank’s output and your scooter’s input. The power bank must also be able to provide the necessary voltage and amperage.

Can You Make Money Charging Electric Scooters?

You can make money by recharging scooters belonging to rental programs like Bird and Lime.

Electric scooters can be rented in many big cities and it’s relatively easy to set up as a freelance electric scooter charger to earn some extra cash.

How Long Does It Take to Charge an Electric Scooter Battery?

How long it takes to charge an electric scooter battery depends on the size, voltage, and amperage of your battery and charger.

The vast majority of electric scooters come with standard 2A chargers that can take anywhere between 4 and 20 hours to recharge your battery.

Fast chargers, on the other hand, speed up this process and cut the charge time in half.

Why is My Electric Scooter Charger Staying Green?

A green light on your electric scooter charger indicates that the battery is fully charged.

If the light stays green even when the battery has been discharged, it may indicate a fault and you’ll need to visit the troubleshooting section of your user manual or notify the manufacturer.

How Do You Know If Your Electric Scooter is Charging?

When your charger is correctly connected to the power socket and scooter battery port, you should be able to see a continuous red light on the charger body.

Why Isn’t My Scooter Charging?

There can be several reasons why your electric scooter isn’t charging.

First, it might not be connected to the charger or power socket correctly. Secondly, there could be a fault in one of the connections between the battery and the power socket. Thirdly, the battery may have been over-discharged, or damaged and is now unable to recharge.

The post Electric Scooter Chargers: How to Charge, Expert Tips & Fast Chargers appeared first on Electric Scooter Insider.

Electric Scooter Batteries: A Beginner’s Guide

Josh Frisby — Wed, 18 Jan 2023 18:55:26 +0000

From voltage, amp-hours, and watt-hours, to 18650 and 21700 cells, there’s a lot to know when it comes to electric scooter batteries.

To help you understand how battery power is measured, as well as different types of electric scooter batteries, we’ve created this guide.

We also give tips on how to prolong battery life and share the key things to look out for when maintaining and replacing a battery.

Battery Power Metrics

Voltage (v), amp-hours (Ah), and watt-hours (Wh)- what do they all mean?

Types of Batteries

Learn about the different types of electric scooter batteries and discover which is best.

Battery Performance

Learn about how long batteries last and how to improve battery life.

Maintenance & Replacement

Everything you need to know about maintaining and replacing batteries.

How is Battery Power Measured? - 3 Metrics You Need to Know

Voltage (V)

Battery voltage is the amount of electrical potential that a battery holds. Commonly referred to as electric pressure, it’s the measured strength of electricity flowing through a circuit.

Electricity is the flow of free electrons from a positive to a negative terminal, and voltage pushes the electrons to move in the same direction resulting in an electrical current. Without it, the electrons would move around randomly.

To simplify this, think of the circuit as a garden hose. The voltage flowing through the circuit (i.e. from a battery to other electrical components) is the water pressure in the hose. It’s this pressure that makes current flow, thereby delivering power.

Typically, electric scooter batteries fall into one of these six buckets: 36V, 48V, 52V, 60V, 72V, or 84V.

In general, the higher the voltage, the more energy that’s stored and the greater the electrical pressure. An example of this is battery power being funneled to a motor. Here, a higher voltage means a faster acceleration because of the high electrical pressure.

Amp-Hours (Ah)

An amp-hour (Ah) is a unit that tells you how much electrical charge can be supplied within an hour. It's calculated by multiplying the number of amps by the time they're supplied.

For example, if a battery is rated as 1Ah, it can deliver a current of 1 amp for an hour. However, it's not always that simple; if you have a 10Ah battery attached to a device that requires 10 amps of current, it will last for one hour. But if you connect it to a device that requires 5 amps, it will last for two hours.

The higher the amp-hours of an electric scooter battery, the greater the capacity of energy stored. Here, a higher figure equates to longer mileage.

Watt-Hours (Wh)

Watt-hours are used to measure battery capacity. They are a measurement of electrical energy that’s equivalent to one watt of power expended for one hour.

It’s calculated by multiplying the battery's voltage by its amp-hours.

For example, a 36V 10Ah battery has 360Wh of electrical energy. This equates to approximately 25-30 miles of range.

Like amp-hours, the higher the watt-hours, the greater the capacity of energy stored. Here, a higher figure equates to longer mileage.

Ultimately, watt-hours is the key metric used for comparing battery performance.

Understanding Different Batteries

Types of Batteries

Lithium-Ion

Lithium-Ion batteries are the most common type of power supply used in electric scooters. They are a relatively recent development but have become more popular than other battery types such as those that are lead-acid.

When you discharge a lithium-ion battery, lithium atoms on the negative side of the battery become ionized. The electrochemical potential of this reaction starts a flow of electrons around the circuits attached to the battery. Lithium is used for this because it’s highly reactive and gives up its electrons easily, acquiring an electronic charge in the process.

These types of batteries are generally more expensive than others but offer a range of benefits, making them the go-to option for electric scooters. Not only are smaller and lighter than others, but they also require less maintenance, last longer, and are significantly more efficient.

Lead-acid

Lead-acid batteries were first used in the 19th century and are less expensive than those made with lithium. However, despite their low price, they're not as commonly used because they're larger, need relatively high levels of maintenance, and are less efficient.

Inside a lead-acid battery are tightly packed sheets of lead that are submerged in sulphuric acid to allow for a controlled chemical reaction. Here, the lead gives up electrons which then flow through the electrical circuits that the battery is attached to.

Most manufacturers consider lead-acid batteries to be too big and heavy to use in their electric scooters. However, because they're so much cheaper than lithium-ion batteries, you can still find them in some budget and kid's scooters. For example, Razor offers a range of affordable kid's scooters that run on rechargeable 12V sealed lead-acid batteries.

Nickel-Metal Hydride

Nickel-metal hydride batteries were the next step in innovation from lead-acid batteries. They utilize nickel hydroxide and another metal to produce a flow of electrons through a circuit from negative to positive. They are about 30% lighter than most sealed lead-acid batteries and last longer.

Nickel-metal hydride batteries are better suited to electric scooters than lead-acid batteries because they save weight and can take you further on a single charge. However, they've mostly been replaced with lithium-ion batteries because they're still relatively heavy, can discharge when not in use, and are likely to deteriorate after just 200 cycles.

Battery Brands: FST vs Name Brand (LG, Samsung, Dynavolt)

FST batteries tend to be lithium-ion batteries manufactured in China. They're relatively cheap and are often selected by electric scooter manufacturers when they want to keep costs down.

However, while they're safe and effective in the short term, they aren't built to the same standard as high-quality batteries from name brands like LG, Samsung, or Dynavolt.

Name-brand batteries are designed to deliver their peak performance for up to 500 charge cycles. This gives you 3 to 5 years of charges that deliver identical performance to the first time you used them.

A simple way to think about this is to imagine charging your phone. Just as your phone battery decays the more you charge it, the cheaper FST cells used in scooter batteries do the same. In brief, this means that your scooter’s maximum range will consistently get shorter the more times you charge it. High-quality batteries, however, prolong battery life meaning they deteriorate at a much slower rate.

Battery Cells: 18650 vs 21700

The lithium-ion batteries used for electric scooters are made of many single cells combined into one big pack. They almost look like someone has strapped lots of AA batteries together.

The numbers 18650 and 21700 refer to the physical size of the cells in the battery. 18650 batteries have cylindrical cells that measure 18mm in diameter and 65mm in length, while 21700 batteries contain cells that measure 21mm in diameter and 70mm in length.

Because the cells in 21700 batteries are larger, they have more capacity. As a result, 21700 batteries provide more power, meaning significantly longer mileage.

Which Battery is Best for an Electric Scooter?

The best battery for an electric scooter is a lithium-ion battery with 21700 cells, made by LG, Samsung, Dynavolt, or any other well-respected brand. These batteries will be lightweight, efficient, long-lasting, and deliver optimal performance for hundreds of charge cycles.

Pros and Cons of Different Battery Placements

Stem

Pros

Further away from the ground, so it's less susceptible to damage
The stem tends to remain cooler than the inside of the deck because it’s constantly being air-cooled

Cons

Stems with batteries in are thicker than those that don’t have them. If you have small hands, this can make it harder to carry when folded.
Top-heavy design with the center of gravity shifted toward the front of the scooter as opposed to centrally positioned.

Deck

Pros

Weight distribution remains balanced and stable with a low center of gravity.
Having the battery in the deck, frees up space in the stem, thereby making it more narrow and easier to wrap your hand around while carrying the scooter.

Cons

Deck-mounted batteries are close to the ground, so they are more susceptible to damage. As a result, you need to be careful when going up and down curbs or riding through puddles unless the battery is sufficiently protected.
Components housed in the deck can become heated because there’s little ventilation. You need to make sure your scooter has appropriate heat sinks to mitigate excessive heat generation.

Removable

Pros

Removable batteries are a good theft deterrent because the scooter can't be ridden if they are removed.
They are easier to charge because you only need to take the battery pack to the power outlet, as opposed to the entire scooter.
You can purchase additional batteries to extend your range.

Cons

Most removable batteries are stem mounted, making the stem thicker and harder to hold when carrying.

Battery Life: How Long Do Electric Scooter Batteries Last?

Charge Cycles and Peak Performance

A charge cycle is a process of charging a battery and discharging it as required into a load.

The term is typically used to specify a battery's expected life since the number of charge cycles affects battery performance.

All batteries are different, but a good-quality one can provide peak performance for up to 500 charge cycles. The peak performance of a battery is when it's operating at its optimum level and can deliver close to the amount of power indicated by its watt-hour rating.

After a battery has been charged beyond its optimum number of cycles, it will continue to power the scooter, but you'll begin to notice a shorter mileage.

As a general rule of thumb, cheaper batteries deliver fewer charge cycles, meaning performance decay is quicker.

How is the Maximum Mileage Figure Calculated?

The maximum mileage figure given in the specifications of electric scooters is calculated by running the scooter under standard testing conditions.

This consists of a 165 lbs person riding the scooter over flat terrain in the slowest speed setting. The battery is fully charged and then ridden until it is fully discharged. The miles traveled under these conditions are recorded as the scooter's maximum mileage.

How to Calculate Mileage Based on Real-World Riding

Most scooter riders don't weigh 165 lbs, won't stay on flat terrain, and want to make the most of their scooter's top speed.

To calculate the mileage based on real-world riding, a good rule of thumb is to multiply the maximum figure by 55-65%.

This will give you a far better idea of how long a single charge of your scooter battery will last with a heavier rider, undulating terrain, and using the fastest speed setting. For example, a manufacturer's maximum range of 20 miles will be closer to 11-13 miles in the real world.

How to Increase Battery Life

To increase the life of your battery and make it last as long as possible, there are several things you can do:

1. Prolong Battery Life Up to 4X By Using the 80/30 Rule (Depending on Your Battery)

Depending on the battery that your electric scooter has, you may want to employ the 80/30 charging rule.

By never letting your battery drop below 30% and only charging it up to 80%, you can significantly slow its rate of degradation and prolong its life. This is particularly useful for older batteries (especially metal hydroxides) since it’s best to keep batteries operating within a given range and limit their recharge cycles (commonly referred to as the memory effect).

However, the good news is that most modern electric scooters use controllers that are calibrated to work with the battery to protect it from over-voltage, low-voltage, and over-discharge. In simple terms, this means that the controller knows when to limit and stop the charging process to ensure the battery charge doesn’t exceed a preset level, whilst also limiting the amount of power that can be discharged to avoid deterioration of the battery cells.

Ultimately, this means that you can charge it to 100% and run the battery until the power fully depletes, and then recharge.

2. Don’t Charge Your Battery As Fast As Possible

Fast charging is convenient and you may be tempted to charge your battery as quickly as possible, but we recommend only using the charger that came with your scooter. Using the wrong charger can damage the battery and shorten its life.

Some scooters do come with the option of using a fast charger, though. So long as these have been tested with your scooter and are given the seal of approval from the manufacturer, then they can be used.

However, it’s important to note that the faster you charge your battery, the hotter it will become, and excessive heat generation is the leading cause of degradation.

3. Store Your Scooter Correctly

There are two things to consider here: the charge level at which you store your scooter, and the temperature of the designated storage location.

It’s no coincidence that most batteries arrive from the manufacturers with a 40% charge. This is the optimal charge level for when you want to put the least strain on the battery and preserve its optimal performance.

Each battery also has a temperature range at which it performs best. If it's regularly cooled or heated out of this range, it can affect its life and performance. The best temperature for most lithium-ion batteries is 59 ℉.

Battery Maintenance: What to Look Out For

Battery Management Systems

Every electric scooter has a controller – a device that monitors and regulates all of the electrical parts of a scooter – and a battery management system is one of its features. It’s used to monitor the use of the battery to ensure optimal performance.

By protecting the battery against over-voltage, low-voltage, over-discharge, over-current, and over-temperature, the system keeps the battery operating within set parameters.

Examples of this include the system disconnecting the battery from the electrical load if it senses that the voltage has dropped below a minimum limit to avoid it from depleting all of its energy and becoming completely flat. Similarly, it limits and shuts down the power supply when the internal temperature of the battery exceeds a safe value.

It also reports key information back to the scooter's display unit, allowing you to view things like battery level, temperature readouts, and error codes that correspond to certain issues.

Effective Charging

These 2 tips will help ensure that you always charge your scooter effectively:

Always use the same charger. For example, if the manufacturer offers a fast charger in addition to the standard one, don't switch between them; choose which works best for you and use that every time.
If you have a scooter with dual charging ports, make sure both chargers are the same (i.e. don't use fast and standard chargers simultaneously).

Replacing a Battery

When Should You Replace an Electric Scooter Battery?

An electric scooter battery should be replaced when you notice a considerable dip in its performance. This could include; taking longer than usual to charge or discharging quicker than usual.

This change in a battery's performance indicates that some internal parts have begun to degrade and can no longer deliver their peak performance.

Most standard FST batteries can deliver between 200 and 300 charge cycles at peak performance. After this, you’ll start to notice a change in how the battery performs. If you charge your battery two times per week, it will last between 2 and 3 years.

High-quality name-brand batteries – including those from LG, Samsung, and Dynavolt – can deliver 300 to 500 charge cycles before dipping in performance. If you charge your battery two times per week, it will last between 3 and 5 years.

How Much Do Electric Scooter Batteries Cost?

Rechargeable lithium-ion batteries cost between $200 and $1,000. Chinese FST batteries are cheaper and name brands like LG, Samsung, and Dynavolt are more expensive.

Budget Model – A 36V 10Ah battery costs $220 (Example: Turboant X7 Max)
Commuter Model – A 48V 13Ah battery costs $200 (Example: EMOVE Touring)
Performance Model – A 60V 18.2Ah battery costs $550 (Example: Mantis)
High-Performance Model – A 60V 35Ah battery costs $780 (Example: Wolf Warrior)
Ultra-Performance Model – A 72V 35Ah battery costs $1,000 (Example: Wolf King GT)

Can You Upgrade Batteries?

With most electric scooters, the battery can't be upgraded. The batteries are perfectly matched to the scooter's size, style, and components and can't be swapped for batteries of different voltages or amp hours.

However, some scooter companies do provide ways to get more range from your scooter. For example, the Horizon from Fluid Free Ride comes in two versions; the Horizon 10.4 and the Horizon 13. These are identical scooters apart from the battery. One has a 374.4Wh battery with a 23-mile range, and the other is 468Wh with a 30-mile range.

Other scooters, like the Turboant X7 Pro – which has a removable battery on the stem – have, in the past, offered both FST and name-brand batteries for you to choose from.

Also, Dualtron offers external battery packs for some of their models (i.e. the Thunder 2) that can be fixed to the front of the deck. These bulky additions don't look attractive but can add up to 33 miles to your scooter's range.

Where to Find Replacement Batteries

The first place to check when searching for replacement batteries is the website of the brand or retailer that you purchased your scooter from.

To help you find the correct parts, we've listed some popular scooter brands below and linked to retailers that sell batteries for each.

Scooter Brand	Replacement Batteries
Apollo	Get Battery
Dualtron	Get Battery
EMOVE	Get Battery
Fluid	Get Battery
GoTrax	Get Battery
INOKIM	Get Battery
Kaabo	Get Battery
Mercane	Get Battery
NAMI	Get Battery
Turboant	Get Battery
Varla	Get Battery

Battery FAQs

Which Electric Scooter Has the Biggest Battery?

The Dualtron Storm Limited is home to the biggest battery that we’ve ever seen. Coming in at a whopping 84V and 45Ah, it holds 3,780Wh of energy. This equates to a monumental maximum range of 136 miles.

As to be expected, ultra-performance scooters – like the Dualtron Strom Limited – have the biggest batteries since they need the additional power to keep their powerful motors rotating.

Which Electric Scooter Has the Longest Battery Life?

Again, the electric scooter with the longest battery life is the Dualtron Storm Limited. Not only does it deliver a 136-mile maximum range, but its battery is made up of high-quality 21700 LG cells that promise up to 500 charge cycles without deterioration.

Can You Use an Electric Scooter Without a Battery?

All electric scooters are designed to run on a battery. Without one, they are unable to store the electricity they require to power the motors. You can, however, still use an electric scooter as a standard push scooter if you desire.

The post Electric Scooter Batteries: A Beginner’s Guide appeared first on Electric Scooter Insider.

Electric Scooter Controllers: A Beginner’s Guide

Josh Frisby — Wed, 18 Jan 2023 14:39:36 +0000

Controllers are the brain and central nervous system of an electric scooter. They are a combination of circuits, sensors, and firmware that act as your onboard computer, and control all of the scooter’s critical functions.

While this may seem overwhelming, we’ve created this easy-to-follow guide to help you fully understand the ins and outs of controllers.

Throughout this guide, you’ll learn what they are, their function, and how their power is measured.

We also explain how they regulate power, and cover the key differences between the two most common electric scooter controllers: Square Wave and Sine Wave.

And, to round off the guide, you’ll learn about maintenance, as well as when and how to replace them.

What Are Controllers?

Learn about what controllers are and why they are important.

Controller Power Metrics

The key metrics that tell you everything about controller power.

What's Their Function?

A run down of how controllers work and their main functions.

Square vs Sine Wave

Learn about the different types of electric scooter controllers.

Where Are They Stored?

Discover the most common places where controllers are stored.

Maintenance & Replacement

How to maintain and replace electric scooter controllers.

What Are Electric Scooter Controllers?

Controllers are smart devices that monitor and regulate all of the electrical parts of a scooter.

The most simple way to think about a controller is that it’s responsible for the coordination of how battery power is used. This includes power delivery to the motor, throttle, display, wheel sensors, regenerative braking systems, and anything else that relies on an electrical current.

Essentially, a controller is a small computer that acts as an electric scooter’s brain, and through it, you can manage the overall functioning of the scooter.

They are used in all electric scooters and are usually housed in a small box built inside the deck of a scooter. Their main role is to give you precise control over your speed. Single-motor scooters have one controller, while higher-performing dual-motor models have two – one for each motor.

How is Controller Power Measured?

Controllers are rated by how much current (measured in amps) and voltage can pass through them.

Those with high amps and voltages can control more powerful scooters.

Voltage (V)

Voltage, commonly referred to as electric pressure, is a key measurement of how powerful a controller is. Measured in volts, it tells you the intensity at which the electricity is being pushed through a circuit.

Typically, electric scooter controllers fall into one of these six categories: 36V, 48V, 52V, 60V, 72V, and 84V.

A higher voltage equates to more power, and this results in greater torque, faster acceleration, and higher top speeds.

For example, a high-performance scooter with a large 60V 30Ah battery and powerful 60V 1000W motors will have controllers with a high voltage (60V) to match the rest of the scooter.

Current (A)

Measured in amps, current is the rate at which electricity flows through a circuit. Like voltage, it’s a useful indicator of how powerful a controller is.

Commonly, electric scooter controllers have an amperage that falls in one of these five buckets: 10A, 25A, 30A, 40A, and 50A.

The higher the current, the faster the controller can respond to signals and inputs from a scooter’s electrical parts. The most noticeable impact of this is greater torque, faster acceleration, and higher top speeds.

For example, a high-performance scooter with a large 60V 30Ah battery and powerful 60V 1000W motors will have controllers with a high voltage (60V), but also a high amperage (40A).

How Do Controllers Work & What Are Their Functions?

A controller’s main function is the act as the brain and central nervous system of an electric scooter. They are a combination of circuits, sensors, and firmware that act as your onboard computer, and control all of the critical functions of your electric scooter. Their main job is to manage the input and output of both voltage and amperage.

The first thing a controller looks for is its power source. In the case of a scooter, this is the battery. It calculates your battery’s voltage and amps, and if compatible, distributes that power to the controller’s various functions.

Here, it coordinates the inputs from your scooter’s electrical components and determines how much power should be used. It’s also responsible for regulating power usage to protect the system from damage.

A simple way to separate the function of a controller is to divide its main responsibilities into two board categories. These include power management and maintaining the health of the scooter’s components.

Power Management

Motor Power

When you press on your scooter’s throttle, it activates a magnetic field within the motor. The voltage of the magnetic field is detected by a sensor that communicates this to the controller. This input is then used to send the correct voltage to the motor, thereby allowing it to rotate at the rate that the throttle requires.

No matter how hard you press on the throttle, the voltage of the magnetic field will be matched by the controller. For instance, if your scooter is equipped with a 60V controller and you push the throttle slightly, then it may only output 20V, resulting in a slow and steady speed. However, if you apply full pressure to the throttle, the controller will output its maximum power of 60V, resulting in faster acceleration and higher speeds.

Cutting Power When Brakes Are Applied

When the brakes are applied, it’s the controller that stops the flow of electricity between the battery and the motors.

This overrides all other signals and prevents the motors and brakes from becoming damaged by working against each other.

Electronic, Regenerative & Anti-Lock Braking

When electronic brakes are applied, the controller sends a current to an electromagnet inside the motor hub. This creates a magnetic field that exerts a magnetic pull on the spinning central spindle to slow the rotation of the wheel.

Similarly, if you’re scooter has a regenerative braking system, the controller changes the flow of electricity from the motor back into the battery. This means that the motor is no longer powering the wheels, but charging the battery instead.

Because the scooter is still moving forward while braking, kinetic energy is created which keeps the motor turning. This creates electricity which is then directed to the battery for storage. By drawing the kinetic energy from the motor in the form of electricity, drag is created and this slows the rotation of the wheels.

As for anti-lock braking systems, otherwise known as ABS, these also rely on controller input to work.

Anti-lock braking systems are designed to prevent wheel lock so that you can remain safe and in control at all times. They work by sensing when the wheels are about to lock and then rapidly reducing and increasing the braking pressure multiple times per second. This allows the wheels to keep moving as the scooter slows down, instead of locking up.

On each wheel is a speed sensor. These detect when the brakes lock and immediately signal this to the controllers. Once the controller receives the signal, it activates the ABS.

Cruise Control

When the cruise control function of a scooter is activated, the controller uses speed sensors on each wheel to keep the scooter running at a constant speed. Once engaged, you can remove your thumb or finger from the throttle and let the controller do all the hard work for you.

Maintaining the Health of Components

Over-Voltage Protection

Over-voltage protection is a feature that shuts down the power supply when the voltage exceeds a preset level.

Most power supplies use over-voltage protection to prevent damage to their electronic components. The impact of over-voltage can cause certain components to degrade and in some cases, cause malfunctions or fires.

The most notable function of a controller here is to constantly monitor the battery voltage so that it doesn’t over-charge.

Low-Voltage & Over-Discharge Protection

Low-voltage protection is a control that prevents battery packs from over-discharging.

When your electric scooter battery has low voltage (i.e. has a low charge), leaving it in that discharged state puts it at a higher risk of remaining entirely discharged. Under these circumstances, if your battery happens to get discharged beyond the standard cut-off point, then its performance will significantly reduce, as will its lifespan.

It’s therefore the controller's role to monitor the voltage of the battery and then disconnect it from the load if it senses that the voltage has dropped below a minimum limit.

Over-Current Protection

Over-current protection, otherwise known as current limiting, is the process of limiting or entirely disabling current flow. It’s a safety mechanism that prevents currents that are higher than the acceptable rating of the circuit or equipment.

Uncontrolled over-current leads to excessive generation of heat, the risk of fire, and can damage equipment. It’s therefore very important to monitor and protect against this.

In electric scooters, controllers monitor the current that flows between the battery and the motors. If the current rises too high, the controller will limit it to prevent permanent damage.

Over-Temperature Protection

Over-temperature protection is a system that limits or shuts down the power supply when the internal temperature exceeds a safe value.

Here, controllers monitor the temperature of the transistors that regulate the flow of electricity within the motors. If they get too hot, the controllers will shut them down to prevent overheating.

Can the Functions of A Controller Be Customized?

Basic electric scooters will let you make minor adjustments to the functions of your scooter’s controllers. Changes include things like controlling the brightness of the display, setting the window of time after which your scooter will automatically go into standby mode, and simple adjustments to braking features such as turning an anti-lock braking system on or off.

Other electric scooters with more powerful controllers, like those found on the NAMI Burn-e 2, can be programmed via advanced settings that are accessible on the scooter’s display. These allow you to input information and adjust how the controller behaves in certain situations.

Some programmable controllers can be used to adjust the top speed, acceleration strength, and intensity of the regenerative brakes. Others allow you to set the maximum controller current and make precise adjustments to how power is distributed to each motor independently. In some cases, you can even set the temperature at which the motors automatically switch to a lower, cooler setting.

With a wealth of customization at your fingertips, you can create customized riding modes based on different power settings.

Types of Controllers (Square Wave vs Sine Wave)

There are two main types of electric scooter controllers: Square Wave and Sine Wave. Both deliver power very differently, with Sine Wave being the preferred option.

Square Wave

Until recently, Square Wave controllers used to be the most common controller type used in electric scooters.

As the name suggests, Square Wave controllers switch on the flow of electricity immediately. Imagine a light switch being flicked on and off in a dark room. The room goes from being pitch black to filled with light in an instant. The same abrupt flow of power is generated by Square Wave controllers.

Some riders love this because it gives you an instantaneous hit of power. However, for most riders, it can be frustrating and hard to control since the rapid injection of power can rock you back and forth. It’s also hard to maintain a constant speed.

Sine Wave

Sine Wave controllers smooth out the power delivery process by using a consistent flow of current.

While Square Wave controllers can be compared to a simple on/off light switch, a Sine Wave one is more like a roll-on/roll-off dimmer dial. Instead of a dark room being filled immediately with light, the dimmer dial gradually increases the light level. The same gradual pattern of power is generated by Sine Wave controllers.

As a result, it’s far easier to modulate your acceleration, giving you greater control.

Where Are Electric Scooter Controllers Stored?

Controllers can be stored almost anywhere there’s space. However, the most common places are within the deck, stem, and kickplate.

Deck

Most scooter controllers are kept in or under the deck, particularly if the battery is also stored here.

There’s plenty of space in the deck, so there’s no need to build any additional housing or widen any parts of the frame. However, because the inside of the deck is enclosed, temperature control can be an issue.

To combat this, some manufacturers couple the controllers to the underside of the deck so that they can be cooled by the air flowing over them.

Stem

Scooters with the battery stored in the stem sometimes keep the controllers there too. This is because the stem will likely have been made wider to keep the battery, so there’s also plenty of space for the controller.

Any components stored here are well protected, but a scooter with a thicker stem can be harder to carry when in its folded position.

Some models, like the Wolf King GT, have dedicated stem-mounted controller boxes. Not only do these create more space in the deck to allow for bigger batteries, but they take advantage of natural air cooling, too.

Kickplate

If the scooter has a relatively small deck or a large battery, the manufacturers may build the controller into the kickplate.

In this position, it’s easy to access if it needs to be replaced, and it’s still relatively close to the battery, reducing the need for long connecting wires.

Controller Maintenance: What to Look Out For

How to Repair and Fix Electric Scooter Controllers

Electric scooter controllers are complex units containing processors, circuits, and many other components. Consequently, if yours isn’t working correctly, it’s best to contact the manufacturer and organize for it to be repaired.

If you think that your controller is damaged or not working properly, here are some things to look out for:

Slower acceleration when you press the throttle
No acceleration when you press the throttle
All the displays and lights work, but the motor is unresponsive
The regenerative brakes don’t work
There’s a buzzing noise coming from the controller
There is a burning smell coming from the controller
The area of the scooter around the controller feels excessively hot
You’ve fully charged the battery, but the scooter still won’t move
You’ve replaced all the fuses and circuit breakers, and the scooter still won’t move

Any of these could indicate a problem with the controller. At this point, it’s worth checking the troubleshooting guide in your user manual and contacting a professional.

To ensure your controller continues to work at peak performance for many years, it’s essential that you only use it according to the manufacturer’s instructions and follow these tips:

Avoid riding up hills that are steeper than the maximum incline rate
Always use the correct battery charger
Don’t swap any of your scooter parts for non-standard replacements

How to Cool Electric Scooter Controllers

The electricity passing through a controller can cause it to get hot. Most manufacturers take steps to ensure that it won’t overheat. These include:

Heat Sinks

Heat sinks are systems that draw the heat away from mechanical components by transferring it into a liquid coolant or air.

Some scooters, such as the Dualtron Thunder 2 and NAMI Burn-e 2, position heat-sensitive controllers at the front or underside of the deck so that cool air can flow over them and allow heat to dissipate.

Others use designs that surround the controllers with heat sinks to draw the heat away.

However, not all scooters are made equal and some have their controllers stored deep inside the deck where it’s almost impossible to cool them down.

Intelligent Temperature Controls

The vast majority of good-quality controllers use sensors to monitor and self-regulate their temperature.

If it exceeds safe levels, they lower power output to reduce heat and prevent damage. Once cooled, the power output will increase.

As previously mentioned, some advanced controllers even let you set the temperature at which they switch to a lower power mode.

Replacing and Upgrading Controllers

Can You Add a More Powerful Controller?

When a scooter is designed, all the components, including the controllers, are chosen to match the needs of the motor and battery. That means that an existing controller will already be getting the best out of the other components.

Replacing it with a more powerful version could severely damage your scooter by burning out some of the electrical components.

When Should You Replace an Electric Scooter Controller?

You should replace a controller if you experience the following issues:

The controller has excessive water damage
The power to the motor is intermittent
The controller is no longer responding

Most importantly, though, you need to make sure to replace it with the same controller, or at the very least, a controller with the same Voltage and Amps as the one being replaced.

How Much Do Electric Scooter Controllers Cost?

The vast majority of electric scooter controllers cost between $50 and $250, with the cost increasing alongside the voltage and amps.

They are usually available to buy from scooter manufacturers or trusted retailers. However, it’s important to remember that scooters with two motors will also need two controllers.

Some examples of prices include:

Budget Model – A 36V 10A controller costs $55 (Example: Turboant X7 Max)
Commuter Model – A 48V 25A controller costs $120 (Example: Horizon)
Performance Model – A 60V 25A controller costs $190 (Example: INOKIM OxO)
High-Performance Model – A 72V 30A controller costs $250 (Example: NAMI Burn-e 2)
Ultra-Performance Model – A 72V 50A controller costs $250 (Example: Wolf King GT)

Where to Find Replacement Controllers

The first place to check when searching for replacement controllers is the website of the brand or retailer that you purchased your scooter from.

To help you find the correct parts, we've listed some popular scooter brands below and linked to retailers that sell controllers for each.

Scooter Brand	Replacement Controllers
Apollo	Get Controller
Dualtron	Get Controller
EMOVE	Get Controller
Fluid	Get Controller
GoTrax	Get Controller
INOKIM	Get Controller
Kaabo	Get Controller
Mercane	Get Controller
NAMI	Get Controller
Turboant	Get Controller
Varla	Get Controller

The post Electric Scooter Controllers: A Beginner’s Guide appeared first on Electric Scooter Insider.

Electric Scooter Motors: A Beginner’s Guide

Josh Frisby — Fri, 28 Oct 2022 14:58:10 +0000

Voltage, watts, nominal power, peak power…there’s a lot to know when it comes to electric scooter motors.

To help you understand how motor power is measured, as well as the factors that affect performance, and how to control and adjust power delivery, we’ve created this guide.

We also outline the different types of motors, explain how they work, and share the key things to look out for during motor maintenance and replacement.

Motor Power Metrics

Learn the four key metrics that tell you everything about motor power.

Single vs Dual Motors

Find out which type of electric scooter best for you.

How to Control Motor Power

A run down of the buttons and settings that control motor power.

Factors Affecting Motor Power

Discover the factors that affect motor performance and power.

Type of Motors

Learn about the different types of electric scooter motors.

Maintenance & Replacement

Everything you need to know about maintaining and replacing motors.

How Motor Power is Measured: 4 Metrics You Need to Know

Voltage

Voltage, commonly referred to as electric pressure, is the measured strength of electricity flowing through a circuit.

The amount of voltage is indicated by a unit known as volts (V). This rating tells you the intensity at which electricity will be pushed through an electric scooter motor.

Typically, electric scooter motors fall into one of these six buckets: 36V, 48V, 52V, 60V, 72V, and 84V.

Motors with higher voltage result in greater torque, faster acceleration, and higher top speeds.

Watts

Watts are a measurement of how much power a motor can deliver. Not only do they indicate the size of a motor, but they also affect the maximum power output.

Electric scooter motors range from 150W to 2000W. Some scooters rely on single motors, while others are kitted out with dual motors to double their power.

The larger the number of watts, the bigger the motor will be and the faster the scooter can go.

Nominal (Continuous) Power

Measured in watts, nominal power refers to the power that a motor can continuously produce without incurring damage.

The higher the nominal power figure, the higher the continuous speed.

For example, a motor with a nominal power of 1000W will be able to produce 1000W of power continuously for as long as there is enough charge in the battery. For context, this amount of power would result in a top speed of approximately 28 mph.

Peak Power

Measured in watts, peak power refers to the power that a motor can instantaneously generate for short periods before overheating.

The higher the peak power figure, the higher the instantaneous speed.

In practice, peak power is what you rely on for an extra boost of torque to propel an electric scooter when you need to accelerate fast, hit top speeds, or ride uphill.

For example, a motor with a nominal power of 1000W may be able to produce 1600W of peak power for a short burst. For context, this amount of power would result in a top speed of approximately 33 mph.

Single vs Dual-Motor Electric Scooters

Single Motor Models

Single-motor electric scooters are generally cheaper, lighter, and more portable than dual-motor models. They have less power, lower top speeds, and slower acceleration rates, but if they have big batteries they can outperform dual-motor models where range is concerned.

For example, a scooter that has a single 52V 1000W motor and a 30Ah battery can keep the wheels rolling for approximately 60 miles. But, if it were to have two 1000W motors, its range would immediately be cut in half since the battery needs to power both motors. There is a caveat, though. If the dual-motor version was only ridden in single-motor mode, then it would also be able to achieve the 60-mile range.

Single-motor models are a great option for beginners, those on a budget, and commuters.

Dual-Motor Models

In most cases, dual-motor electric scooters are heavier and more expensive than single-motor models. However, they have more power, higher top speeds, faster acceleration rates, and are better at scaling differing terrain including off-road tracks and hilly areas.

Also, because the scooter’s power is distributed evenly across both wheels, they have better traction and stability.

Dual-motor models are a great option for riders that have some experience and want to go fast. They can also be a great choice for beginners since you can cap the top speed using different riding modes. By controlling the motor power you can ease into the ride and build your confidence.

How to Control & Adjust Motor Power

Single/Dual Motor Buttons

All dual-motor scooters come with single/dual motor buttons. They allow you to switch from using a single motor to using two simultaneously.

Using one motor will conserve your battery power and is ideal for smooth flat surfaces when you’re not in a hurry. Using both motors will burn through your battery power quicker, but you’ll be able to reach higher speeds, as well as take on steeper slopes and rougher terrain.

Eco/Turbo Buttons

Scooters that come with eco/turbo buttons allow you to choose what your priority is for your journey.

If you want to prioritize efficiency, the eco mode will limit your top speed, slow your acceleration, and conserve your battery life.

However, if speed is the name of the game, the turbo mode will unleash your scooter’s full capabilities, giving you access to its top speed and fastest acceleration. In turbo mode, you will deplete the batter power quicker, meaning a shorter range.

Riding Modes

Most scooters come with a range of riding modes to let you choose the speed that best matches your capabilities.

Budget, commuter, and performance scooters tend to come equipped with 3 riding modes, while high and ultra-performance models come with 6.

A low mode will give you slow speed and acceleration, while a high mode lets you unleash the full power of your scooter. This is ideal for inexperienced riders who don’t yet feel ready to use the full power capacity of their new scooter.

Customizable Settings

Almost all scooters come with a display that shows key information such as speed, battery power, and distance traveled, but some have displays that allow you to access the scooter’s P-settings and customize its performance. This can include:

Capping Top Speeds

Capping a scooter’s top speed is great for nervous riders but is also an excellent way to guarantee you won’t exceed a local scooter speed restriction.

Adjust Acceleration Strength

Reducing the intensity of your scooter’s acceleration can make it easier to control for new riders, as well as better suited for busy pedestrian-filled areas. On the other hand, increasing acceleration strength means you can burn rubber and make the most of the motor power of offer.

Control the Flow of Power to Motors Independently

Most of the time, electric scooters with dual motors will use the same wattage to perform equally. However, some scooters like the NAMI Burn-e 2 allow you to control the flow of power to each of its motors independently.

This is useful since you can customize the power profile for your environment. For example, if you live in a hilly area, you may want to funnel more power to the front motor to pull you up the hill as opposed to pushing you up it from the rear.

Factors That Affect Motor Power

Motor Placement: Front or Rear

Just like with cars, a rear-wheel-drive electric scooter of the same weight, power, and tire size will accelerate quicker than its front-wheel-drive counterpart. This is because as the scooter pushes forwards, there’s a slight shift in weight toward the back. This pushes down on the rear tire giving it better traction.

However, the most effective implementation of motors for maximum torque, acceleration, and speed, is to equip an electric scooter with a motor in each wheel hub.

Battery Power

Batteries always have the same voltage as the motors they are supplying power to, however, they can vary in size.

The size of a battery is determined by Amp-hours. As the name suggests it refers to how many amps a battery can deliver in an hour.

By multiplying Voltage and Amp-Hours together, we get Watt-Hours (Wh). Watt-Hours is used to measure a battery’s power capacity.

The higher the Watt-hours, the more energy a battery can store and the further an electric scooter can go.

In practice, Watt-hours are what you rely on for an electric scooter's maximum mileage.

For example, a battery rated at 36V and 10Ah, stores 360Wh. This equates to a maximum range of approximately 25-30 miles. However, if you were to ride fast and draw lots of power to the motor, a realistic range of 14-16 miles would be achieved.

Ultimately, the size of your battery and the power it holds will determine the length of time for which a motor can run.

Controllers (Square Wave vs Sine Wave)

Controllers are electronic circuits that control the speed of a scooter by regulating the flow of electricity from the battery to the motor. When the throttle is pressed, the controller determines how quickly the motor responds and how fast the scooter can accelerate. More powerful controllers (rated between 30A and 50A) respond faster, resulting in lightning-quick acceleration.

The two main types of controllers are Square Wave and Sine Wave.

Square Wave

A Square Wave controller switches on the flow of electricity immediately, similar to a tap going from off to fully on in an instant. This quick response from the motor can feel abrupt, making you jerk back and forth as the scooter surges forward.

Sine Wave

A Sine Wave controller smoothes out the power delivery process by using a consistent flow of current. Instead of the sudden surge of power, it’s similar to a tap being turned on and steadily increasing the flow of water. This results in a smooth acceleration, preventing jerky movements.

Tires

The more contact a tire has with the ground, the more traction it can generate. This can either slow your scooter or aid its accelerative capabilities. Getting the right amount of contact is dependent on tire pressure.

If your tires are pumped up to their recommended pressure, they will be perfectly primed to grip the road and take full advantage of the motor power. However, if the pressure is too low, it will bring more surface area of the tire into contact with the road, thereby increasing traction and causing drag which will slow the scooter.

The best tire profile to accommodate motor power are those that are pumped up their recommended pressure, have wide surface areas that come into contact with the road, and sport a tread pattern designed to grip and propel the scooter forward.

Inclines

When you ride up a hill your center of gravity shifts to the rear of the scooter. This makes it harder for the motor/s to pull the scooter forward, and as a result, slows the rate at which they can operate.

Most performance scooters with powerful dual motors can climb inclines with no significant deterioration in their motor power or speed, but if you attempt to scale a hill that is too steep or you’re riding a scooter that has a small single motor, then you will experience a loss of power almost immediately.

Terrain

The type of terrain you ride over affects how well your tires make contact with the ground. Flat, well-maintained roads will provide the maximum level of contact and let your scooter reach its full power potential. However, rough terrain with bumps and loose material will prevent the scooter from getting firm contact.

Under these circumstances, challenging terrain can require the scooter to deliver short bursts of instantaneous power (peak power) as it attempts to ride over unforgiving surfaces (i.e. wet mud). However, continually doing so can cause the motors to overheat and potentially become damaged.

One way to avoid this and to ensure that you make the most of the continuous power (nominal power) that your motors can produce is to equip your scooter with the correct tires.

The vast majority of performance scooters can be fitted with off-road tires. These sport a knobby three-dimensional tread pattern that aids their ability to grip loose terrain.

Features like adjustable suspension are also extremely useful when responding to the irregularities of rough terrain since they arrow you to maintain greater contact between the tires and the ground.

Temperature

The performance of electric scooter motors and batteries can be affected by changes in temperature. If the battery gets too cold, the chemical reactions that produce electricity can slow down or stop, this, in turn, can result in less power being sent to the motor.

Alternatively, if the motor gets too hot, it can prevent components from working correctly, reducing the speed and power it can produce.

Most scooter motors are designed to work correctly in a broad range of temperatures and have enough ventilation to prevent overheating.

Rider Weight

The more weight on a scooter, the harder the motor/s must work and the slower it will go.

Consequently, lighter riders will find that their scooter will achieve better speed and acceleration than those that are heavier. However, if you choose a scooter that has a load-bearing capacity that is at least 30 lbs beyond your weight, then in most cases you’ll be able to achieve the best levels of performance.

Rider Posture (Aerodynamics)

The position you stand in when you ride produces wind resistance that drags on your scooter.

Scooters are designed with this in mind, so unless you’re riding directly into a strong wind, you’ll likely not notice much difference. However, if you are facing the wind or want to reach the highest speed possible, crouching slightly and keeping your arms tucked into your body will give you a small increase in power.

Types of Motors & How They Work

When you hit the throttle on your scooter, it sends a signal to the controller. The controller then draws the correct amount of power from the battery and funnels it to the motor. However, depending on the type of motor, there are a few differences.

Brushed DC (BDC) Motors

A brushed DC motor consists of a stator (a stationary outside ring) and a rotor (the central spindle that rotates when the motor is running). Here, a system of brushes is used to pass electricity between the outer stator and the moving rotor.

This is a simple and effective way of regulating the current in each part of the motor. The downside is that the rotor and the brushes constantly rub against each other. This causes friction, heat, and occasionally even sparks. As a result, brushed motors are generally cheaper to make, but they don’t last long because the brushes quickly erode or become damaged.

Brushless DC (BLDC) Motors

Brushless DC motors also have a stationary stator and rotating rotor but use a system of sensors and magnets instead of brushes. This means that there is no contact between the two parts, removing any friction and increasing the motor’s lifespan.

These are the most common type of motors in electric scooters because they’re highly efficient and low maintenance. The only drawback is they require more complex components, so are generally more expensive.

Geared or Gearless

Most electric scooters use a brushless DC gearless drive (aka direct drive) motor that immediately turns the wheel.

Geared drive motors, however, have a simple system of gears between the motor and the wheel, altering the speed of the rotation.

While both systems have their advantages, in general, a direct drive motor is capable of providing large amounts of torque and power. This makes them especially well-suited for higher-performing electric scooters.

Hub Mounted or Chain Driven

A hub-mounted motor is located inside the scooter’s wheel.

A chain-driven motor is mounted under the deck, and its rotation is transferred to the wheel via a chain, similar to a bicycle.

The vast majority of electric scooters use self-contained hub-mounted systems. This is because power output isn’t lost through the transmission system. They are also simpler and more accessible in terms of functionality and don’t come with any of the issues that chain-driven systems are riddled with, such as the chain becoming damaged or detached.

Hub-mounted motors are, however, heavier which increases the weight of an electric scooter significantly. This can be seen as a positive, though. The added weight gives the scooter additional stability.

Motor Maintenance: What to Look Out For

How to Repair and Fix Electric Scooter Motors

When it comes to repairing and fixing electric scooter motors, you should first consult the troubleshooting section of your user manual. This will give model-specific instructions as to how best to solve any problems.

For anything that involves taking the motor apart, it’s always best to leave it to the professionals and contact the scooter manufacturer. This will prevent you from accidentally voiding the warranty or permanently damaging the scooter.

However, before contacting the professionals, here are a few steps that will help you identify any issues:

Check the motor – Look for disconnected wires or anything that looks out of place.

Check the battery – The battery supplies the power to run the motor, so if the motor isn’t running correctly, it could be an issue with the battery. If you’re able to turn your scooter on and see that it has battery power via a display or voltmeter, then it’s likely that the issue is with the motor.

Inspect the throttle – Turn the scooter on and get ready to ride it. Use the throttle as you would normally and see if it works. If the scooter doesn’t respond, it could be that the wire connecting the throttle to the controller has become detached.

Check fuses and circuit breakers – The user manual will direct you to your scooter’s fuses and circuit breakers. You should check these to see if they have been tripped or damaged.

How to Cool Electric Scooter Motors

All motors produce heat when they’re in use, particularly when you push them to their peak power output. The best way to prevent this is to turn the motor off and give it enough time to cool down in a well-ventilated area.

Some manufacturers have accounted for this by including additional features designed to cool the motors when they get hot. These include:

Heat Sinks

A heat sink is a system that draws the heat away from mechanical components by transferring it into a liquid coolant or air.

Some scooters, such as the Dualtron Thunder 2 have achieved this by positioning heat-sensitive components like the controllers on the underside of the deck, where the heat can quickly dissipate in the air.

Others, like the Dualtron Storm, have specialist heat sinks surrounding the battery and controllers to keep them cool. The Apollo Phantom even has a set of heat sinks surrounding the motor itself and these catch air as the motor rotates, allowing heat to escape quickly.

Intelligent Temperature Control

Some advanced scooters, such as the NAMI Burn-e 2, have intelligent systems that monitor the temperature of the motors and show it on the display unit.

When they get too hot, the system will automatically reduce power output to let them cool. Once cooled, the power output will increase.

You can also set the temperature at which the motor will switch to eco mode to reduce heat and prevent damage.

Use the Correct Motor Settings to Avoid Damage

To ensure that your scooter always performs at its best and avoids damage, it’s essential that you use the correct settings for each ride. For example, sticking to eco mode for longer, steady rides and only using turbo for high-speed dashes.

It’s also vital that you don’t switch to a slower setting while traveling at high speed. This will abruptly slow the scooter, severely damage the motor, and forcibly eject you over the handlebars. Instead, slow down first using the brakes, then adjust the motor settings or riding mode.

Replacing and Upgrading Motors

Wheel Size and Motor Power: Can You Add a Faster Motor?

It's not possible to add a faster or more powerful motor to a scooter because the frame and wheelbase have been specifically designed to accommodate the size and power of the motor that it came with.

As power increases, so too does the size of the motor, and as a result, sturdier frames, reinforced rims, and larger wheels are needed.

Because more powerful motors require larger wheels to give them enough space in the hub, people often refer to scooters by their wheel size since this is an indication of their power and a quick way to categorize them for performance. For example, a 10-inch model can hit top speeds of between 20 and 40 mph, while an 11-inch scooter can exceed speeds of 50 mph.

Can You Add a Second Motor?

Scooters that are sold with a single motor cannot be upgraded to support a second one.

This is because they only have the capability and internal components to support one motor. The second motor would need additional controllers, extra connectors, and you’d likely have to upgrade your battery to ensure it had enough power, too.

Also, the frame, deck, and suspension are all designed to behave correctly under a certain amount of torque. If you add more power, you could have less control at higher speeds.

Can You Tune-Up a Motor to Improve Performance?

It’s not possible to physically tune up an electric scooter motor; however, there are several ways in which you can optimize its performance:

1) Remove Speed Limiters

Some scooters come with speed limiters applied. We’ve received one or two models that despite having top speeds of 45 mph, could only get up to 15 mph. This was a result of speed limiters.

These are added so that the scooter can be ridden legally in areas that put restrictions on the speed at which you can travel.

Removing them is a simple case of unplugging two opposing connectors. Once detached, you’ll be able to experience the full motor power on offer.

2) Adjust the Top Speed and Acceleration

Some scooters will let you finetune the motor’s performance via the display or a compatible mobile app. Here, you can choose to select the top speed at which you want to ride.

For instance, the INOKIM OxO has a top speed of 40 mph but arrives set at 15 mph. You can use its display to change this setting.

Similarly, many Apollo scooters – including the Air – now come with mobile app compatibility that allows you to not only choose your top speed but also set the speed at which each riding mode can achieve.

As with speed alterations, you may also be able to customize the strength of your acceleration. Most scooter displays will give you five settings to choose from with each increasing the intensity, while some mobile apps allow you to make even finer adjustments to find the perfect accelerative strength.

3) Swap Old Parts and Components For New Ones

If you’ve had your scooter for a while, one or more of the components may have seen better days. If you get a professional to update some of the parts, such as the controller, throttle, or even the motors, this will have a positive effect on performance.

4) Check Tire Pressure / Get New Tires

The contact between your tires and the ground plays a pivotal role in your scooter’s performance.

By ensuring you have the correct tire pressure or by updating worn-out tires, you’ll notice a boost in your scooter’s performance.

For instance, we had our NAMI Burn-e 2 fitted with specialist PMT tires and the performance that these delivered compared to the stock nylon tires was night and day. We saw faster acceleration, significantly better braking, and enhanced handling.

When Should You Replace an Electric Scooter Motor?

An electric scooter motor will need replacing if its performance declines significantly or if it stops working. If this happens, you should contact the manufacturer and follow their procedure to diagnose the fault. This will help you determine if it’s the motor that’s at fault or another component.

How Much Do Electric Scooter Motors Cost?

Most replacement electric scooter motors cost between $50 and $500, with the cost reflecting the power of the motor.

They are usually available to buy from scooter manufacturers or trusted retailers. To provide context of how much different types of motors cost, see below:

Budget Model – A 36V 360W motor costs $70 (Example: GoTrax Apex)
Commuter Model – A 48V 500W motor costs $250 (Example: Horizon)
Performance Model – A 52V 1200W motor costs $280 (Example: Apollo Phantom)
High-Performance Model – A 72V 1000W motor costs $290 (Example: NAMI Burn-e 2)
Ultra-Performance Model – A 72V 2000W motor costs $490 (Example: Wolf King GT)

Where to Find Replacement Motors

The first place to check when searching for replacement motors is the website of the brand or retailer that you purchased your scooter from.

To help you find the correct parts, we've listed some popular scooter brands below and linked to retailers that sell motors for each.

Scooter Brand	Replacement Motors
Apollo	Get Motor
Dualtron	Get Motor
EMOVE	Get Motor
Fluid	Get Motor
GoTrax	Get Motor
INOKIM	Get Motor
Kaabo	Get Motor
Mercane	Get Motor
NAMI	Get Motor
Turboant	Get Motor
Varla	Get Motor

The post Electric Scooter Motors: A Beginner’s Guide appeared first on Electric Scooter Insider.

Electric Scooter Brakes: A Beginner’s Guide

Josh Frisby — Wed, 26 Oct 2022 12:25:37 +0000

From hydraulic discs to electromagnetic braking systems, there’s a variety of brakes to choose from, and making sure you understand which is best for you is key to your safety.

Throughout this guide, we’ll cover the different types of brakes, factors that affect stopping power, and walk you through the steps you need to take to maintain, replace, and upgrade your brakes.

Types of Brakes

Learn about different brake types, how they work, and their pros/cons.

Mechanical vs Electronic

Discover which is best: mechanical or electronic brakes.

Brake Position

Front, rear, or both? Discover which position is the most effective.

Braking Performance Factors

Learn about the many factors that affect braking performance.

Brake Maintenance

Learn how to complete common maintenance tasks.

Replacement & Upgrades

Everything you need to know about replacing and upgrading brakes.

Type of Brakes

Below, we’ve outlined all of the different brake types, explained how each works, provided a rundown of their pros and cons, and included tips on how you can adjust them for improved braking performance.

Mechanical

Foot Brake

How Do Foot Brakes Work?

Foot brakes are found on cheap and slow electric scooters since the braking power needed is minimal.

Unlike other more complex braking systems, their design is simple in construction and relies on one component. The only component used is a plastic fender positioned above the rear wheel. To operate the brake, you stomp down on it with your foot. This pushes it against the moving tire, creates friction, and slows the scooter.

Not all fenders can be used as foot brakes, though. They must be purposefully designed to be strong, flexible, and withstand friction. In most cases, the fenders are hinged and springloaded so that they can be moved into position. If you were to try to brake using a fender that wasn’t built for braking, it would likely incur damage.

However, with its simplicity comes a major drawback. When applying pressure to the fender, it not only causes it to rub against the tire and lead to permanent damage, but if you stomp on the brake too hard, the rear wheel can lock and cause you to skid while braking. This is why they’re found on cheaper, slower scooters.

Pros

Simple to operate
Cheap to make and install

Cons

Only suitable for slow scooters
Can damage the tire
Can cause the rear wheel to lock and skid
Weakest braking mechanism

How to Adjust?

Most foot brakes are single-unit pieces that can’t be adjusted.

If you have a foot brake that isn’t working correctly, the most common course of action is to have it replaced.

Drum

How Do Drum Brakes Work?

A drum brake is completely enclosed in a circular drum-like shell. It’s then mounted inside a scooter’s wheel hub.

Thanks to their low maintenance design and reliable stopping power, drum brakes are found on both budget and commuter electric scooters.

However, because drum brakes can’t generate as much braking force as disc brake systems, higher-performing scooters (i.e. those that can reach speeds of 30 mph and beyond), tend to opt for the latter.

How drum brakes slow a scooter depends on several components. In brief, the brake is activated when you pull the brake lever. The cable that’s attached to the lever and drum then applies pressure to the piston. The piston pushes the stationary brake shoe into contact with the rotating drum lining. The friction between these two surfaces slows the wheel and stops the scooter from moving forward.

To better understand how drum brakes work, we’ve explained what each component does below:

Brake lever – A standard brake lever is mounted on the handlebars and is used to activate the drum brake when pulled. The performance of the brake depends on how hard you pull the lever. Pulling it hard will slow you faster and pulling it gently will slow you more gradually. Most brake levers are similar, even if the type of brake is different.

Brake cable – A brake cable runs from the lever to the drum brake. When the brake lever is pulled it puts tension on the cable. This tension then applies pressure to the piston.

Pistons (Wheel Cylinder) – Inside the drum brake is a small piston connected to the brake cable and the internal brake shoe. The piston has two positions; retracted and extended. When the piston is retracted the brake shoe is held away from the brake lining and the wheel can rotate freely.

Brake Shoe (Pads) & Lining – The brake shoe is the central section of the drum brake that remains stationary as the wheel rotates. When the piston is extended it pushes the brake shoe against the drum lining. This is the point at which the brakes are fully engaged and the process of slowing the scooter begins.

Drum – The drum is the outer shell of the brake. It’s attached to the wheel and rotates as the wheel moves. Inside the drum is the brake lining that creates friction when the brake shoe is applied.

Pros

Long-lasting and low maintenance
Reliable in wet weather
Durable thanks to the encased design (they won't fade or warp as a result of external riding conditions)
They can last longer than other brake types because the contact area is larger

Cons

Hard to replace internal parts so the whole unit will need to be replaced
Not as strong as disc brakes

How to Adjust?

Drum brakes are unlikely to need adjusting during their lifetime. However, in most cases, you can adjust them yourself. Here, it’s a simple case of pinching either side of the brake hose together to take the pressure off the drum and twisting the screw either counter-clockwise to weaken the brake or clockwise to strengthen it.

Cable-Actuated Disc

How Do Cable-Actuated Disc Brakes Work?

Cable-actuated disc brakes are found on budget, commuter, and performance scooters.

Unlike drum brakes, all of the components that make up disc brakes are externally attached to the scooter, making them easier to maintain. They operate with a simple mechanical action and rely on the coordinated movement of several parts.

When you pull the brake lever, it puts pressure on the brake cable. This pulls on the caliper causing it to push the brake pads into contact with the disc. The friction between the brake pad and the rotor slows the movement of the wheel and brings the scooter to a stop.

To better understand how disc brakes work, we’ve explained what each component does below:

Brake lever – As with most hand-activated brake systems, cable-actuated disc brakes are operated by a brake lever mounted on the scooter’s handlebars. When you squeeze your grip around the lever it pulls the brake cable.

Brake cable – The brake cable is made up of a hollow plastic tube that contains a narrow steel wire. It runs from the brake lever to the calipers.

Calipers – Calipers are the units that are responsible for applying braking force to the discs. They contain opposed pistons that sit on either side of the rotor. Pressure from the brake cable engages these pistons to push the brake pads inward to contact the disc.

Brake pads – This is the part of the brake that is pushed against the disc to create friction and slow the scooter. Brake pads can wear down and become damaged so they need to be replaced every few years.

Brake Rotor (Disc) – The brake rotor is a circular metal disc attached to the wheel. It rotates as the wheel spins, then as the brake pads are applied, the rotation of the rotor slows, reducing the scooter’s speed.

Typically, electric scooter discs come in three sizes: 120mm, 140mm, and 160mm. They also come in a variety of designs, and although this may be mistaken for a vanity measure, the geometrically inspired cutouts help to dissipate heat and keep the brakes working as efficiently as possible.

Pros

Strong stopping power
Consistent braking
Easy to clean and maintain

Cons

They can fade and warp as a result of external ridings conditions
Heat and friction may result in the need for regular maintenance, adjustments, or replacement
You need to pull on the levers hard to produce maximum braking force

How to Adjust?

Each part of a cable-actuated disc brake system is easy to access, replace and adjust.

Most systems can be adjusted by loosening or tightening the bolts holding the calipers in place. Here, you can achieve a better alignment of the calipers and brake pads to ensure improved braking performance.

You can also replace the brake pads, meaning you can keep maintenance costs low instead of having to fork out for an entirely new braking setup.

Semi-Hydraulic Disc

How Do Semi-Hydraulic Disc Brakes Work?

Semi-hydraulic disc brakes consist of a standard mechanical brake cable connected to calipers loaded with hydraulic pistons. While most of the parts are similar to those in cable-actuated disc brakes, there are a few differences.

When the brake lever is pulled, the wire inside the brake cable pulls on the calipers. This applies pressure to the hydraulic pistons, filling them with hydraulic fluid and driving the brake pads against the rotor. No matter how hard you pull the brake lever, the activation of the pistons applies strong pressure. This means that semi-hydraulic discs are easier to activate and always provide excellent stopping power.

To better understand how semi-hydraulic discs work, we’ve explained what each component does below:

Brake lever – Semi-hydraulic brakes have standard brake levers that are located on the handlebars. A simple pulling action activates the brakes.

Brake cable – Identical to those used on cable-actuated disc brakes, this is a hollow cable with a narrow steel wire inside. When the hand lever is pulled, the wire pulls the calipers.

Hydraulic piston – Unlike standard cable-actuated brakes, these have calipers with built-in hydraulic pistons. When the brake cables are pulled, the pistons activate, pushing the brake pads into contact with the rotors.

Brake Rotor (Disc) – This metal disc is fixed to the center of the wheel. When the brakes are activated the brake pads squeeze the discs. Because of the pressure that the semi-hydraulic pistons apply, all electric scooters with these have discs that measure 140mm and feature designs that aid the dissipation of heat.

Pros

Hydraulic pistons put strong immediate pressure on the discs
Reliable braking power
Easier to install and maintain than full-hydraulics

Cons

More expensive than cable-actuated systems
More lever pull is needed to produce the same braking force as a fully hydraulic brake system

How to Adjust?

You can adjust semi-hydraulic brakes by loosening the two bolts that hold the calipers in place. Then adjust the position of the calipers and retighten the bolts. This will allow you to better align the calipers, brake pads, and discs for better braking performance.

However, if the brake calipers are hard to access, it’s best to refer to your user manual or contact a professional to make any adjustments.

Fully-Hydraulic Disc

How Do Full-Hydraulic Disc Brakes Work?

Hydraulic disc brakes consist of a fully hydraulic system that stretches from the brake levers to the pistons in the calipers. Like semi-hydraulic brakes, the hydraulic pistons within the calipers remain, but the steel brake cable is replaced by a brake line that’s filled with hydraulic fluid.

When you pull the brake lever, brake fluid is forced out of a small cylinder by a plunger. This fluid is then forced into the brake line. When the fluid in the brake line is placed under pressure, it forces the hydraulic pistons in the calipers to squeeze the brake pads against the discs. This creates friction and causes the scooter to slow down.

To better understand how full-hydraulic discs work, we’ve explained what each component does below:

Brake lever – The lever for hydraulic brakes looks the same as those for other brake systems but has different internal components. Inside there’s a reservoir of brake fluid and a connection to the brake line.

Brake line – Full-hydraulic brakes don’t have a brake cable, instead, they have a hollow brake line that’s full of hydraulic fluid. This runs from the brake lever to the calipers.

Calipers – Like semi-hydraulic brakes, the calipers have hydraulic pistons. It’s the piston’s job to push the brake pads against the disc.

Disc (Rotor) – The discs in a full-hydraulic system provide the same function as with any other disc brake and look the same as those found in semi-hydraulic systems. The only differences may be that they are slightly thicker (from 2mm to 3mm), and have bigger diameters (from 140mm to 160mm) to better manage the extremely strong braking forces exerted on them.

Pros

Strongest level of braking power
Only a small amount of lever pull is needed to produce a strong braking force
Little need for adjustment
There are no cables to get stuck or damaged

Cons

Most expensive braking system
They can be complex to service and repair

How to Adjust?

Hydraulic brakes are generally self-adjusting and any maintenance is best carried out by a professional.

However, you may be able to adjust the position of the calipers to better control how the brake pads squeeze the rotors.

The most common cause of adjustment is needed when air bubbles make their way into the hydraulic fluid, thereby relieving pressure and making the brakes feel spongey. In these circumstances, you can buy hydraulic brake refill kits. These come with all the necessary parts you need – including a syringe – so you can inject the fluid into the brake reservoir and force any air bubbles out.

Electronic

Electromagnetic

How Do Electromagnetic Brakes Work?

From budget models to high-performing scooters, electromagnetic brakes are found in the vast majority of electric scooters. Typically, this type of braking system is built into the brake lever. Whenever you pull on the lever, a sensor will detect that you are braking and engage the electronic brake.

When engaged, it sends an electric current through an electromagnet to create a magnetic field. This field exerts a magnetic pull on the spinning central spindle to slow the rotation of the wheel.

It’s important to not get these types of brakes mixed up with regenerative systems. Although they work in a similar way, electromagnetic brakes don’t recycle wasted energy.

To better understand how electromagnetic brakes work, we’ve explained what each component does below:

Brake lever or button – Unlike other brakes, electromagnetic brakes are either built into the braking lever of a mechanical brake or are engaged via a dedicated button. When the brake lever is pulled or the button is pressed, the electromagnetic brake works simultaneously alongside the mechanical brake to bolster stopping power.

Electromagnet – Electromagnets are different from standard magnets. Instead, they consist of a wire wound into a coil around a magnetic core. Electrical currents then pass through the wire and the core concentrates the magnetic flux to make a powerful magnet.

So long as the lever or button for the electronic brake is engaged, a continuous supply of current maintains the magnetic field and slows the scooter.

Pros

No maintenance
Bolsters the stopping power of mechanical brakes
Seamless integration means one less thing to think about when braking

Cons

Not strong enough to be used on their own

How to Adjust?

The ability to adjust the strength of electronic brakes depends on your scooter.

Most budget models will come with a preset strength that you can’t change, while other more expensive models give you the option to select the intensity level from 1 to 5 (with 1 being the weakest and 5 the strongest).

Regenerative

How Do Regenerative Brakes Work?

Similar to electromagnetic brakes, regenerative ones use the scooter’s motor to slow it down. However, they recycle otherwise wasted energy back into the battery when braking.

When the regenerative brake is engaged, a device known as a controller – which regulates the operation of the electric motor – stops the flow of electricity from the battery to the motor. Because the scooter is still moving forward while braking, kinetic energy is created which keeps the motor turning. This creates electricity which is directed to the battery for storage. By drawing the kinetic energy from the motor in the form of electricity, drag is created, slowing and eventually stopping the scooter.

To better understand how regenerative brakes work, we’ve explained what each component does below:

Brake Paddle or Lever – Regenerative brakes are either controlled by a dedicated paddle, similar to a thumb throttle, or they’re combined with another braking system and are activated when the rider pulls the brake lever.

Battery Charging System – When regenerative brakes are switched on, the flow of electricity is reversed. Instead of going from the battery to the motor, the electromagnet in the motor is connected to the battery charging system. It’s used to convert the motor’s kinetic energy into electricity so that it can be stored in the battery.

Pros

No maintenance
Bolsters the stopping power of mechanical brakes
Recovered energy is recycled

Cons

Not strong enough to be used on its own
There needs to be space available in the battery for it to be effective

How to Adjust?

Some electric scooters come with displays that let you access the scooter’s P-settings. These settings can be used to customize the intensity of the regenerative brakes across 5 levels with 1 being the weakest and 5 the strongest.

Anti-Lock Braking System (ABS)

How Does an Anti-Lock Braking System Work?

Anti-lock braking systems are designed to prevent wheel lock so that you can remain safe and in control at all times.

They work by sensing when the wheels are about to lock and then rapidly reducing and increasing the braking pressure multiple times per second, applying optimal pressure. This allows the wheels to keep moving as the scooter slows down, instead of locking up.

To better understand how ABS brakes work, we’ve explained what each component does below:

Sensors – Speed sensors on both wheels detect when the brakes lock and immediately signal this to the controllers.

Controllers – Controllers are electronic circuits that monitor and regulate the delivery of power throughout the scooter. Once the controller receives the signal from the sensors that the wheels have locked, it limits the brake force and activates the ABS to actuate the braking motion.

Pros

Prevents skidding
Safer braking, especially during emergency stops and at speed
Improved traction control

Cons

You can feel the vibrations caused by the ABS when it rapidly modulates braking pressure

How to Adjust?

There’s no way to adjust the intensity of an anti-lock braking system. However, most scooters that have one allow you to turn it either on or off.

Mechanical vs Electronic Brakes: Which Are Better?

In short, mechanical brakes – including drums, cable-actuated discs, semi-hydraulic discs, and full-hydraulic discs – are significantly better than electronic brakes. This all comes down to the fact that mechanical brakes offer greater stopping power.

Most electric scooters come with both a mechanical and electronic brake. This is because electronic brakes are an excellent way to add extra stopping power without increasing the weight of the scooter.

You’ll rarely find a scooter with an electronic brake alone. In cases like this, we recommend avoiding the scooter. This is because they can’t produce enough power to bring you to a safe stop within a reasonable distance. Also, if your scooter suffers an electrical fault that cuts the power, you can rely on the mechanical brakes to modulate your speed, whereas electronic brakes will be useless.

Brake Position: Which is More Effective?

Not all braking systems are made equal – some opt for electronic brakes at the front and mechanical brakes at the rear, some choose to equip the same type of brakes in equal measure to both wheels, and others simply prefer to add just one brake to either the front or rear wheel.

Below, we’ve explained which position is the most effective.

Front Only

If your scooter has one brake on the front wheel, it will provide stronger stopping power than if it was at the rear. This is because it’s positioned in front of your center of mass creating more friction to slow the scooter. This means that you'll stop quickly, but if you brake too hard, a front brake could also cause the scooter to tip forward, lifting the rear wheel off the ground.

Rear Only

A single rear brake is ideal if you want steady gradual braking but it might not produce enough stopping power for short emergency stops. However, with a rear brake, there’s no risk of being thrown over the handlebars. There is a risk of skidding when the brake is pulled too hard, though.

Front & Rear

A combination of a brake on both wheels is by far the safest and most effective braking setup for electric scooters. This spreads the braking power resulting in shorter stopping distances, greater control, and reduced risk of skidding.

Ultimately, the most effective setup is dual mechanical brakes, with full hydraulic discs delivering the strongest and most efficient braking.

Factors That Affect Braking Distance

How effective a scooter’s brakes are and how short its braking distance is doesn’t just depend on the type of brakes and their position. While these are important factors, there are several others to consider.

Rotor (Disc) Size

The larger the rotor, the greater the leverage that can be applied to stop the wheel from turning. The same can be said for the thickness of a rotor. As a result, bigger rotors make for better braking performance.

Budget and commuter scooters with disc brakes often have rotors that measure between 120mm and 140mm in diameter and 2mm in depth. On the other hand, faster-performance scooters have rotors that measure between 140mm and 160mm with a depth of either 2mm or 3mm.

Rotor (Disc) Design

Most rotors are designed with lots of holes and cut-outs. This reduces their weight, but more importantly, allows water and dirt to escape.

Adding a large solid plate of metal would adversely affect the caliper’s ability to apply pressure and therefore, slow the braking process. Also, a solid disc would simply trap water and dirt between its surface and the brake pads.

So, not only do the holes and cutouts ensure better braking performance, but their sharp edges score the surface of the brake pads to prevent glazing (i.e. when the pad surface gets highly polished by the disc and leads to poor braking).

Kill Switch

A kill switch is an essential safety device on electric scooters but it also plays a role in ensuring your stopping distance is as short as possible.

When you pull on the brake/s, the kill switch is automatically tripped to disconnect the motor from the battery. This prevents the motor and brake from being active simultaneously and fighting against each other. Using both at the same time would waste energy and significantly extend your stopping distance.

Speed

The faster a scooter is traveling, the longer the stopping distance will be.

For example, a performance scooter capable of reaching 40 mph, will have a much longer stopping distance than a 20 mph commuter scooter, no matter how effective the brakes are.

We record the stopping distances of all the electric scooters that we test from 15 mph to ensure there’s consistency when it comes to choosing the best electric scooter.

Tires (Size, Type & Tread)

Tires with a larger diameter and thicker width maintain more traction since they have a bigger contact patch with the ground.

Similarly, the type of tire plays a significant role in how effective the brakes are. The greater the surface area of the tire that can come into contact with the ground, the quicker it will come to a stop. The best tire profile for braking is those that are pneumatic (air-filled). Scooters with solid tires, on the other hand, are prone to skidding since the hard rubber can’t mold to the ground.

The final aspect of tire design that impacts braking performance is the tread. Some tires are smooth while others feature deep grippy tread patterns. Ultimately, the more texturized the tread, the greater the tire's ability to maintain traction.

Suspension

Firm, well-maintained suspension allows scooter brakes to perform as they should, but loose, worn shocks can reduce their effectiveness.

If your scooter’s suspension is not working as it should, it will affect how the tires make contact with the road and can even disturb the distribution of weight by wobbling back and forward.

Terrain

Effective braking depends on the wheel having good contact with the ground. Anything that interferes with this, such as dirt, gravel, mud, or rain can cause skidding and longer stopping distances.

While you’re most likely to get shorter stopping distances on flat, well-maintained surfaces, it's not always possible to keep your scooter in these areas. If you need to travel on rougher surfaces, make sure your scooter is suitable for that terrain type and has the correct tires fitted (i.e. specialist off-road tires).

Weather

Rain, snow, and ice can get in between your tires and the road, interfering with traction and extending the distance it takes to come to a complete stop.

Ensuring you have the correct tires with a deep enough tread will help keep you in control. But you should also consider choosing an electric scooter with an anti-lock braking system to safely modulate your braking power.

Weight

The heavier the scooter and the rider, the higher the momentum, and the longer the stopping distance.

If you’re a heavier rider, it’s best to opt for a scooter that has sufficient brakes – especially if you plan on riding over 20 mph. Under these circumstances, we recommend a minimum of dual cable-actuated disc brakes.

Rider Posture

If you lean forward or backward while riding it alters the center of gravity of the scooter.

Making sure you’re prepared for when you brake by shifting your weight over the back of the scooter can significantly improve stopping distance.

Brake Maintenance: How to Care

We recommend checking your brakes and testing them to ensure they are working before every ride. But, occasionally, you will need to perform certain maintenance tasks to keep them in good order.

In this section of the guide, we’ll cover the key things to look out for and how to complete common maintenance tasks.

How Often Should I Check My Brakes?

It’s important to check your brakes before every ride. Give them a thorough visual check to see that everything is in the correct position and then check they’re working correctly.

It’s also worth arranging a regular brake service every 4-6 months, depending on how often you use your scooter. You should consult your user manual to see if there’s a specific safety or maintenance schedule you need to follow, too.

Reposition Brake Pads

With mechanical disc brakes, you may hear the sound of the disc rubbing against the brake pads or experience poor stopping power if the pads aren’t aligned properly to the rotor.

The first step to take is to check the state of the pads. If they’re worn down, they will need replacing, but if they aren’t, you can proceed with repositioning them.

Cable-actuated calipers usually have bolts or adjustment dials on either side. These can be loosened and tightened to move the pads away from or closer to the rotor. Semi-hydraulic and hydraulic brakes are self-adjusting and shouldn’t need repositioning.

Bleeding Hydraulic Brakes

If your hydraulic brakes start to feel spongy when you pull the lever or don’t activate until you’ve pulled it all the way to the handlebars, they likely need bleeding.

This is usually caused by air getting into the hydraulic fluid. Bleeding is the process that removes the air bubbles or replaces the fluid. Depending on the type of brakes, you may need a specific kit or need to follow a certain procedure. Typically, though, the kit will include a syringe that you use to inject hydraulic fluid into the brake reservoir to force air bubbles out.

Fix Warped Discs

Warped discs can be caused by impacts, poor-quality materials, uneven wear, or even overheating.

To see if your discs are warped, start by lifting your scooter onto a box so the wheel can spin freely. Stand over the wheel, look directly down at it, and then spin it. If the disc spins in a wavy motion it’s warped and needs fixing.

Before you can fix it you’ll need to identify where it’s bent. To do this, take a marker pen and hold it against the rotor so it’s just touching. Brace your hand and spin the wheel. Any areas where the pen has not marked the rotor are the spots that need adjusting.

Get a small crescent wrench and tighten it in the center of the area that needs adjusting. Using the wrench bend the rotor back into a straight position. Spin the rotor again to check for wobble, if it’s spinning smoothly, you’ve fixed it successfully. If you can still see movement, repeat the process, until it’s fixed.

Clean Trapped Water & Dirt

Trapped water and dirt can interfere with the contact between the disc and brake pads.

To clean both thoroughly, start by following your user manual to remove the brake calipers. Then pour a small amount of nail polish remover onto a paper towel and firmly wipe all sides of the disc. Repeat this until it’s completely clean. Then remove the brake pads from the caliper and clean them with the nail polish remover and paper towel. Reattach the pads and calipers.

Replacing & Upgrading Brakes

Electric scooter enthusiasts love to modify their scooters, and one of those modifications is the brakes. Now, while all of us may not want to go down the route of customizing our scooters to look like a car from a Fast & Furious film, you may need to replace or upgrade your brakes to keep your scooter safe to ride.

Is it Possible to Upgrade or Replace Your Brakes?

Most mechanical brakes such as those with discs or fender brakes can be upgraded or replaced relatively easily. This is because these are attached externally. However, it’s essential that you only replace them with a brake type that’s appropriate for your scooter. Drum brakes, electronic-magnetic brakes, and regenerative brakes are built into the scooters and are much harder to replace.

When Should You Replace Your Brakes?

The point at which you should replace your brakes is when they stop performing as they did when you first got the scooter. As a rule of thumb, if it takes you over 6.0 meters to come to a stop from 15 mph, then you need to replace your brakes.

The most common times when you should replace your brakes, however, are when the brake pads are worn down or glazed as a result of becoming highly polished by the disc constantly rubbing against them.

How Much Do Electric Scooter Brakes Cost?

It depends on whether you are buying replacement parts or an entirely new braking system.

Typically, you can expect to pay the following:

Drum:

Brake Lever – $20-$50
Drum – $20-$70

Cable-Actuated Disc:

Brake Lever – $20-$50
Brake Pads – $20-$40
Brake Cable – $15-$40
Caliper – $20-$40
Disc – $15-$20

Semi-Hydraulic Disc:

Everything included in Cable-Actuated Disc and…
Hydraulic Caliper – $50-$70

Full-Hydraulic Disc:

Everything included in Cable-Actuated Disc, Semi-Hydraulic Disc, and…
Hydraulic Caliper & Brake Cable – $50-$90
Hydraulic Fluid Refill Kit – $20-$60

Recommended Brake Brands

The vast majority of drum and cable-actuated disc brakes use standardized components, so the brand they come from doesn’t matter too much.

However, where you should pay attention is when it comes to hydraulic braking setups. Here, the best electric scooter brake brands include Zoom, Nutt, Magura, and Logan. These are all well-respected brands with a history of producing reliable brake systems with short stopping distances.

Where To Find Replacement Brakes

The first place check when searching for replacement brake parts is the website of the brand or retailer that you purchased your scooter from.

To help you find the correct parts, we've listed some popular scooter brands below and linked to retailers that sell parts for each.

Scooter Brand	Replacement Brake Parts
Apollo	Get Parts
Dualtron	Get Parts
EMOVE	Get Parts
Fluid	Get Parts
GoTrax	Get Parts
INOKIM	Get Parts
Kaabo	Get Parts
Mercane	Get Parts
NAMI	Get Parts
Turboant	Get Parts
Varla	Get Parts

The post Electric Scooter Brakes: A Beginner’s Guide appeared first on Electric Scooter Insider.

Buying an Electric Scooter: A Beginner’s Guide

Josh Frisby — Tue, 25 Oct 2022 07:29:20 +0000

After 4 years of testing scooters, amassing a database of 140+ models, and helping 100,000+ people find the right scooter every month, we’ve summarized our expertise into the ultimate guide that’ll take you through each step and consideration that you should take when buying an electric scooter.

Step-by-Step Guide

Beginner's guide on how to choose and buy an electric scooter.

Factors to Consider

All the factors that you should consider when choosing a scooter

Find the Perfect Scooter

Find the best electric scooter for your needs by use case.

Step-by-Step Guide: How to Choose an Electric Scooter

1. Your Experience Level: What Type of Rider Are You?

The first step you need to take when choosing an electric scooter is to determine what type of rider you are. There are three categories to choose from: beginner, intermediate, and expert.

Beginner

If you haven’t ridden an electric scooter before and only have experience on push scooters or bikes, you’ll need to look for one that is suitable for beginners.

These types of scooters will have simple, easy-to-use controls, slow acceleration, kick-start functionality, and a top speed of 20 mph.

Recommended Scooters Categories: Entry-Level and Commuter

Intermediate

If have some experience riding electric scooters, are familiar with their controls, and can maintain balance at various speeds, then you can be considered an intermediate rider.

Scooters that fit the profile of an intermediate rider will be more powerful than those destined for beginners. They have more motor power, bigger batteries, and are packed with features. The top speed of these models can reach 40 mph.

Recommended Scooters Categories: Commuter and Performance

Expert

Riders that have owned and ridden several different types of electric scooters are considered experts.

An expert rider has the experience needed to ride the highest-performing scooters. These scooters are exceptionally powerful and fall into the categories of performance, high-performance, and ultra-performance. Most will have a top speed greater than 40 mph, blistering acceleration rates that less experienced riders will struggle to control, and a wealth of premium features – including hydraulic brakes, hydraulic suspension, and high-quality batteries. They also have excellent build and ride quality.

Recommended Scooters Categories: Performance, High-Performance, Ultra-Performance

2. Scooter Categories: Choosing the Right Type of Scooter

Now that you understand what type of rider you are (beginner, intermediate, or expert), you can select the type of scooter will best suit your experience level and needs.

Entry-Level:

Entry-level electric scooters are simple models that have been designed to minimize cost while maintaining as many key features as possible.

They are ideal for beginners because of their low speed, lack of complicated extra features, and cheap price tags.

They generally cost between $300 and $700, are light, and don’t exceed 20 mph. Importantly, they are fitted with small motors and batteries, and because they rely on their tires for shock absorption, are suitable for use on well-maintained sidewalks and streets.

The build quality of budget models is basic, however, several have surprised us (i.e. the Turboant M10 and X7 Max).

Our Top Pick: Turboant X7 Max

Specs	Description
Price:
Price Range	$300-$700
Power:
Motor Power	250-500W
Top Speed	10-20 mph
Battery Power	5-10Ah
Max Mileage	10-30 miles
Incline Ability	0-5 degrees
Brakes	Electronic, Disc, Foot
Ride Quality:
Suspension	None
Tires Size	8-10 inches
Tires Type	Solid, Pneumatic (Inner-Tube)
Design:
Weight	20-40 lbs
Load	220-275 lbs
Folding	Foldable Stem
Terrain:
Street	Yes
Off-Road	No

Further Information:

Entry-Level Electric Scooters

Commuter:

Commuter scooters are perfectly suited to getting you to and from work. They’re also favored by weekend warriors who are in search of a fun means of cruising around the city or getting from A to B.

Compared to budget models, they pack more motor and battery power, meaning you can ride faster and further. Consequently, you’ll have to pay more for them, with the average price ranging from $700 to $1,500.

Because the focus is on commuting, they often come equipped with a range of foldable mechanisms – including telescopic stems and collapsible handlebars – to make their folded dimensions as compact as possible so that they can be transported and stored easily.

Our Top Pick: EMOVE Cruiser

Specs	Description
Price:
Price Range	$700-$1500
Power:
Motor Power	500-1000W
Top Speed	20-30 mph
Battery Power	10-30Ah
Max Mileage	20-60 miles
Incline Ability	5-10 degrees
Brakes	Electronic, Regen, Disc, Drum
Ride Quality:
Suspension	Front & Rear (Springs, Rubber, Swingarms)
Tires Size	8-10 inches
Tires Type	Solid, Pneumatic (Inner-Tube)
Design:
Weight	40-60 lbs
Load	220-352 lbs
Folding	Foldable Stem, Foldable Handlebars, Telescopic Stem
Terrain:
Street	Yes
Off-Road	No

Further Information:

Electric Scooters For Commuting

Performance:

Performance electric scooters are well suited to intermediate and expert riders. They have large motors (1000W-2000W), reach high speeds (30-40 mph), and deliver fast acceleration rates. As a result, they are higher up on the price scale and can cost between $1,500 and $2,500.

Most will have high-quality suspension, excellent hill-climbing capability, and can be ridden along dirt paths and forest trails, as well as burn rubber in the city.

To cope with the higher speeds you’ll also find better brakes including semi and fully-hydraulic systems. However, they’re also more expensive and can cost between $1,500 and $2,500.

As to be expected, performance scooters are much larger and heavier than budget and commuter models. They can still fold, though – and some sport foldable handlebars to make their folded dimensions more compact.

With all that performance scooters have to offer, it will come as no surprise to learn that they are one of the most popular types of scooters.

Our Top Pick: SPLACH Titan

Specs	Description
Price:
Price Range	$1500-$2500
Power:
Motor Power	1000-2000W
Top Speed	30-40 mph
Battery Power	15-30Ah
Max Mileage	30-70 miles
Incline Ability	10-25 degrees
Brakes	Regen, Disc, Semi-Hydraulic, Full-Hydraulic
Ride Quality:
Suspension	Front & Rear (Springs, Rubber, Swingarms)
Tires Size	10 inches
Tires Type	Pneumatic (Inner-Tube)
Design:
Weight	50-80 lbs
Load	265-330 lbs
Folding	Foldable Stem (Some Foldable Handlebars)
Terrain:
Street	Yes
Off-Road	Yes

Further Information:

Fast Electric Scooters

High-Performance:

High-performance scooters can do everything performance models can, but they increase the power to an entirely new level.

With these scooters costing anywhere between $2,500 and $3,500, you can expect huge motors, herculean batteries, and excessive amounts of power that can take you from 0-50 mph in a matter of seconds.

Unlike performance models, these usually come with large tubeless tires. Now while this may seem like a trivial difference, it plays a vital role.

Firstly, because high-performance scooters are designed for aggressive riding, they need to be able to withstand wear and tear, and tubeless tires do just that. Using these instead of pneumatic tires with inner tubes substantially reduces the risk of puncturing since there’s no tube to puncture – whether that be from sharp objects or pinch flats when the tube is squashed between the tire and rim. Secondly, they’re faster because they have a lower rolling resistance.

Ultimately, high-performance scooters are best suited to riders that seek adrenaline.

Our Top Pick: NAMI Burn-e 2

Specs	Description
Price:
Price Range	$2500-$3500
Power:
Motor Power	2000-3000W
Top Speed	40-50 mph
Battery Power	20-35Ah
Max Mileage	40-90 miles
Incline Ability	25-35 degrees
Brakes	Regen, Disc, Full-Hydraulic
Ride Quality:
Suspension	Front & Rear (Springs, Hydraulics, Swingarms)
Tires Size	10-11 inches
Tires Type	Pneumatic (Tubeless)
Design:
Weight	70-110 lbs
Load	265-330 lbs
Folding	Foldable Stem
Terrain:
Street	Yes
Off-Road	Yes

Further Information:

Fast Electric Scooters

Ultra-Performance:

Ultra-performance scooters are the Bugatti Chiron’s of the scooter world.

These top-of-the-range scooters are priced above $3,500, can reach wind-whipping speeds of up to 80 mph, boast blistering acceleration rates, and have outrageously huge batteries that can keep the wheels rolling for between 70-140 miles.

Imagine high-performance scooters but with jet thrusters.

Given the immense size of all the components that go into making an ultra-performance scooter, it's no surprise that they are also the heaviest. Weighing between 80 and 150 lbs, you can wave goodbye to portability and make space for their huge, hulking frames.

This category of scooters is home to the smallest number of models since they are built for electric scooter enthusiasts, as opposed to the mass market – like budget and commuter scooters.

Our Top Pick: Wolf King GT

Specs	Description
Price:
Price Range	$3500+
Power:
Motor Power	3000-4000W
Top Speed	50-80 mph
Battery Power	30-45Ah
Max Mileage	70-140 miles
Incline Ability	35-50 degrees
Brakes	Regen, Disc, Full-Hydraulic
Ride Quality:
Suspension	Front & Rear (Springs, Hydraulics, Swingarms)
Tires Size	11-13 inches
Tires Type	Pneumatic (Tubeless)
Design:
Weight	80-150 lbs
Load	265-330 lbs
Folding	Foldable Stem
Terrain:
Street	Yes
Off-Road	Yes

Further Information:

Fast Electric Scooters

3. Selecting a Scooter: How to Choose a Reliable Model

Now that you know which type of scooter you want, it’s time to choose a reliable model.

Check If the Scooter Has Been Featured on Trusted Review Websites

Electric scooter manufacturers go to great lengths to convince you to spend your money on their scooters. The best way to sieve through all the sales talk and work out which is best for you is to look at which models are recommended by trusted review websites.

To ensure that a review can be trusted, look for those that are just as honest about the bad points as they are about the good. It’s also important that they take a neutral stance, letting you come to your own conclusion without pushing you to make a specific purchase.

Similarly, some websites don't review the product hands-on. Instead, they do desk research. As a result, they aren’t able to give an accurate representation of how a scooter performs. A good indicator of this is sites that use stock imagery (i.e. pictures showcasing scooters on a white background). Here, you should only trust websites that have reviewed the scooters hands-on.

At Electric Scooter Insider, one of our core foundations is impartial advice – we don’t just focus on the good, we also highlight the bad to let you be the judge. You can read more about how we test and review electric scooters here.

Check the History of the Brand’s Product Line

Once you’ve chosen which scooter you want to buy, a good step to take is to check out the previous history of the brand.

This can easily be done by visiting their website and looking at their other scooters. You should then look for reviews of the other scooters. This will give you a detailed understanding of the brand’s track record and give you peace of mind that the scooter you want to purchase will be a good choice.

At Electric Scooter Insider, we are continually testing and reviewing scooters from established brands – whether that’s new iterations of existing scooters or completely new models. By taking a look at our reviews page, you’ll be able to see all of our reviews categorized by brand.

Electric Scooter Brands to Avoid

With hundreds of electric scooter brands competing for your cash, it’s no surprise that there are many untrustworthy ones. Unfortunately, some attempt to pass off inferior scooters as more expensive models.

When shopping for electric scooters, avoid miscellaneous brands found on marketplaces like AliExpress. While they may match the performance specs of more well-known brands, they rarely have the same build quality. They also don’t come with the same level of after-sales support or warranty, all of which are essential.

Scooter Brands We Trust & Recommend

Based on many years of testing scooters from various brands, we’ve pulled together a list of the brands that we trust and recommend.

Brand	Budget	Commuter	Performance	High-Performance	Ultra-Performance
Fluid		✓
Mercane		✓
Unagi		✓
AnyHill	✓	✓
GoTrax	✓	✓
Turboant	✓	✓
Hiboy	✓	✓	✓
SPLACH	✓	✓	✓
INOKIM		✓	✓
EMOVE		✓	✓
Apollo		✓	✓	✓
VSETT		✓	✓	✓	✓
Dualtron			✓	✓	✓
Kaabo			✓	✓	✓

Further Information:

Electric Scooter Brands: Our Experiences and Recommendations

4. Buying a Scooter: Where’s the Best Place to Buy From?

So, you’ve found the exact scooter that you want and now you need to choose where to buy it from.

Finding a Retailer You Can Trust

In our experience, retailers that are dedicated to selling electric scooters and similar products, are far better than generic marketplaces or sites that focus on a broad range of electronic goods.

This is because dedicated retailers are experts in their products and can provide you with specific, detailed buying advice. They are also the best for technical support.

Marketplaces, electronic, and general retail stores simply can't deliver the same level of service.

Before you purchase your scooter take your time to familiarize yourself with the customer support options. This will give you a good indication of how much support you can expect if you have questions before the purchase, or if there is an issue or problem after the sale is completed.

Look through the contact pages, FAQs, and policies to establish what they provide in terms of technical support, servicing, repairs, warranty, shipping, and return procedures.

Further Information:

Where to Buy an Electric Scooter: Recommended Retailers & How to Choose

Retailers That We Recommend

Using the table below you’ll be able to find the retailers that we recommend alongside the brands that they sell.

Retailer	Brands They Stock
AnyHill	AnyHill
Apollo	Apollo
Fluid	Fluid, INOKIM, Kaabo, Mercane
GoTrax	GoTrax
Hiboy	Hiboy
Rev Rides	VSETT
SPLACH	SPLACH
Turboant	Turboant
Unagi	Unagi
Voro Motors	Dualtron, EMOVE, Kaabo

Factors to Consider When Choosing an Electric Scooter

The factors that you should consider when choosing an electric scooter can be boiled down into 7 broad categories, including power, ride quality, design, applicable terrain, extra features, customer support, and legality.

Power:

Motor Power & Top Speed

Motor power is measured in two units: Watts and Voltage.

Watts (W): Affects the size of the motors and their power output. Higher Watts = Higher speed.

Voltage (V): Affects the motor’s torque. Higher Voltage = Faster acceleration.

Budget scooters typically have a single 36V 350W motor and can hit top speeds of 20 mph, while ultra-performance models can have dual 72V 2000W motors and reach 80 mph.

Ultimately, the larger the motor, the faster the scooter can go.

Further Information:

Electric Scooter Motors: A Beginner's Guide

Battery Power & Mileage

Battery power is measured in Watt-Hours (Wh).

To calculate Watt-Hours, you take the amount of current that the battery can produce in Amp-Hours (Ah) and multiply it by its Voltage (V).

For example, a budget scooter may have a 36V 10Ah battery. Multiplying these figures together shows us that the battery’s storage capacity is 360Wh. This will keep the wheels rolling a maximum of 25-30 miles. On the other hand, an ultra-performance model may have a 72V 35Ah (2520Wh) battery that has enough energy stored for 100 miles.

Generally, the higher the Wh value, the longer the battery will last, and the greater range you will get.

It's worth noting that not all batteries are made equal. Some electric scooters come with cheap Chinese batteries – which are chosen to keep the cost of the scooter down – while others use high-quality name-brand batteries from LG, Samsung, Panasonic, and Dynavolt. The key difference is prolonged battery life. Just as your phone battery decays the more times you recharge it, scooter batteries do the same. Those that are high-quality (i.e. name-brand batteries) tend to last for hundreds more charge cycles.

Some scooters are also equipped with battery management systems. These regulate battery usage to ensure that they operate at optimum efficiency and are protected from damage.

One other useful nugget of information is that when a scooter’s maximum mileage is calculated it’s based on a 175 lb rider, riding on a flat surface at a low speed. Consequently, most people can expect to get about two-thirds of the maximum mileage when letting the throttle rip.

Further Information:

Electric Scooter Batteries: A Beginner's Guide

Incline Ability

Each scooter is given an incline rate to indicate the angle of the slopes that it can climb.

Typically, the maximum incline rate is written in degrees. However, it’s important to note that if you were to take your scooter on a hill that matched its maximum incline rate, the motor would struggle, causing the scooter to either be extremely slow or stop completely.

As a general rule of thumb, an electric scooter's real-world incline rate is approximately 60% of what the manufacturer quotes. For example, if the scooter has a maximum incline rating of 10 degrees, it will only be able to comfortably climb hills with an incline of up to 6 degrees.

Further Information:

Best Electric Scooters For Climbing Hills

Brakes

The faster and more powerful a scooter is, the better quality brakes it needs.

There’s a range of braking mechanisms to choose from, including electronic, regenerative, foot, drum, disc, semi-hydraulic disc, and fully-hydraulic discs. Fully hydraulic brakes are the best you can get and can be paired with regen braking for exceptional stopping power.

For scooters that don’t exceed 20 mph, a single braking mechanism is sufficient. For scooters that can reach up to 40 mph, dual brakes are needed, and for those that surpass 40 mph, we recommend opting for a scooter that has dual hydraulic brakes.

Further Information:

Electric Scooter Brakes: A Beginner's Guide

Charge Time

Most electric scooter batteries can be fully charged within 4 and 24 hours depending on their size. Smaller batteries charge quickly, and larger ones take longer.

Some scooters come with dual charging ports and have fast chargers to speed the process up.

Further Information:

Electric Scooter Charging Guide

Ride Quality:

Suspension

Suspension is a flexible joint placed between the scooter’s wheels and its frame. It protects you from the bumps and vibrations of the ground and significantly improves a scooter’s ride quality.

Scooters with suspension are more expensive but will allow you to ride on a variety of different surfaces comfortably.

Basic suspension setups include metal springs and air shocks; they absorb shocks by compressing when the scooter passes over a bump. More complex types include swingarms, rubber cartridges, and hydraulics. Some of these can be adjusted to provide a greater range of motion and make for a more plush riding experience.

Further Information:

Best Electric Scooters With Suspension

Tire Type

Scooter tires are either solid, foam, or pneumatic.

Solid tires are cheap, made of rubber, and don’t get punctures, but they don’t absorb bumps and vibrations.

Foam tires are filled with polyurethane foam that traps small pockets of air. They’re lighter than solid tires and have slightly better shock absorption.

Pneumatic tires are filled with air – some come with an inner tube, while others are tubeless meaning they only have an outer tire. In some instances, tubeless tires are lined with tire slime that plugs any punctures to prevent air from escaping – these are known as no-flat tubeless tires.

Out of all the tire types available, those that are pneumatic – whether inner-tube or tubeless – deliver the most shock absorption. They also serve as the best tire type when it comes to maintaining traction thanks to their pliable design.

Tire Size

Electric scooter tires range between 8-13 inches tall and 2-4 inches wide.

Cheaper, less powerful scooters have smaller, narrower tires, while more expensive, powerful models have larger ones.

The larger the tire, the greater the level of shock absorption.

Tire Profile

An overlooked, yet influential factor that can affect a scooter’s maneuverability is its tire profile. While all tires share a perfectly circular shape, the front-on profile can differ. Some tires have square front-on profiles, while others benefit from more curvature.

Having tires with a more rounded profile enables better cornering and handling since the curvature ensures that the rubber maintains traction at acute angles. When you learn into corners on tires with a square profile, they roll onto their edges and lose grip. In some circumstances, this can lead to the scooter sliding out from beneath you.

Further Information:

Electric Scooter Tires: A Beginner's Guide

Design:

Weight

Electric scooters can weigh anywhere between 20 and 150 lbs.

Lighter scooters are more portable but have lower top speeds and shorter ranges. Heavier scooters have more powerful motors, bigger batteries, and more features, but are difficult to pick up and carry.

Load Capacity

The load capacity of a scooter indicates the rider weight that it can support.

However, even if you fall within the manufacturer-quoted load capacity, a heavy rider may still not be able to achieve the same speed and range as a lighter rider.

As a rule of thumb, we suggest choosing a scooter that has a load-bearing capacity that is at least 30 lbs beyond your weight.

Further Information:

Best Electric Scooters for Heavy Adults (265-352 lbs)

Folding Functionality

The folding functionality of a scooter allows it to be collapsed into a more compact form for transport and storage.

Almost all electric scooters come with a foldable stem, while others have folding handlebars and telescopic stems to make their folded dimensions even more compact.

The more folding features a scooter has, the smaller its folded form is likely to be and the easier it should be to carry. However, folding sections can create weak points in the frame that may rattle while riding. Well-built scooters, from established brands, include strong joints and support mechanisms to prevent this.

Further Information:

Lightest and Most Compact Folding Electric Scooters (Small & Portable)

Build Quality

The build quality of a scooter can play a huge role in how it performs. This depends on what materials are used, how the parts are designed, and how they’re assembled.

Aluminum alloy is the most common scooter material because it’s strong, light, and resistant to corrosion. It’s used to construct the frame, while the consumables (i.e. throttles, handgrips, tires, etc) are made of reinforced, hardened plastic and rubber.

When it comes to the design of a scooter’s frame, the way it's put together can vary. For the best build quality, we recommend choosing a model that was built using CNC manufacturing. By using computerized numerical control (aka CNC), software dictates the movement of the tools and machinery making the scooter, thereby ensuring that each part of a scooter’s frame can be three-dimensional cut from a single piece of aluminum alloy. This allows for a high precision finish with zero weldings, meaning zero weak points. This method is often used by INOKIM.

Similarly, if metal components are made by being compressed into shape, this is called forging. Forged parts are stronger and more durable than those where the metal was melted and poured into a mold (known as casting).

Dimensions (Frame, Handlebars, Deck)

For the most part, the more powerful a scooter, the larger its dimensions. This can include a taller stem, wider handlebars, and a larger deck.

The height of the handlebars is particularly important, especially if you are taller than 6ft.

If you’re tall, a short stem forces you to ride with your back hunched over. To avoid this look for scooters that have handlebars that are 50-52 inches from the ground.

In a similar vein, wider handlebars provide greater stability, particularly when riding at high speeds. And, when it comes to deck size, for maximum comfort it should be at least 20 inches in length to give you enough space.

The shortest deck we’ve ever tested was that of the INOKIM Quick 4. It was notoriously short measuring just 15.5 inches, and this, unfortunately, hindered ride quality.

Applicable Terrain:

Street

Not all electric scooters are made equal and some are confined to the streets.

Scooters suitable for street use will have tires with a shallow tread pattern. Because most streets are well maintained and relatively flat there’s less need for a deep tread.

It’s also worth noting that scooters designed for use in urban environments don’t have the necessary robustness to conquer off-road tracks. Riding off-road exerts additional pressures on your scooter, so staying within the realms of what is possible is essential to keep your scooter in full working order.

One thing is for sure, though. All electric scooters – whether budget, commuter, performance, high-performance, or ultra-performance – can be ridden on the streets.

Off-Road

While all scooters are street-grade, only performance, high-performance, and ultra-performance models have the necessary features and build quality to tackle off-road routes.

Off-road terrain can be unpredictable, bumpy, muddy, and have loose surfaces like sand and gravel. Scooters that can be used on this terrain need to have deep traveling suspension and large air-filled tires with a knobby tread. Some scooters even come with the option of off-road tires with a deeper tread pattern.

Further Information:

Best Off-Road Electric Scooters

Extra Features:

Display

Every electric scooter has a display. It’s either mounted in the center of the handlebars or attached to them.

You can use it to check key details such as your speed, distance traveled, and remaining battery life.

More advanced versions include additional data like the temperature of the motors and controllers, and allow you to access customizable settings such as acceleration and electronic braking strength.

Lights

There are many different lighting setups to consider, including headlights, taillights, brake lights, turn signals, and additional deck lighting.

More expensive scooters are more likely to have turn signals and LED lights along the side of the deck, but one area of a scooter’s lighting setup that can be disappointing is the strength and placement of the headlight.

If the headlights are too low or not bright enough, they won’t cast a strong enough beam to illuminate the way ahead. As a result, we often recommend picking up an additional headlight for almost every scooter that we review.

Further Information:

Best Electric Scooters With Lights
Best LED Headlights

Water-Resistance Rating

If a scooter has a water-resistance rating it is certified as being protected against water to a specific level. The most common ratings are as follows:

IP Ratings	Protected Against
IPX4	Protected against water splashing from any direction
IPX5	Protected against low-pressure water jets from any direction
IPX6	Protected against high-pressure water jets from any direction
IP54	Partially protected against dust and protected from water spray from any direction
IP55	Partially protected against dust and protected from low-pressure water jets from any direction
IP56	Partially protected against dust and protected from high-pressure water jets from any direction
IP67	Totally dust tight and protected from submersion for a depth of up to 1 meter

Further Information:

Waterproof Electric Scooters For Riding in the Rain

Anti-Theft Features

Electric scooters are valuable assets and a target for opportunistic and organized crime. Consequently, some scooters come with a range of anti-theft features to keep them safe. These include:

Key lock ignitions that immobilize the motors until the key is inserted.
NFC card readers that unlock the scooter only when a pre-programmed NFC card is held close to the reader.
Fingerprint readers that only allow you to turn the scooter on once your biometric data has been parsed.
Password protection that won’t let anyone start the scooter without entering a 4-digit code.
Mobile apps that enable the remote locking of wheels.
Wireless key fobs that can arm motion sensors and alarms.
Built-in cable locks.

Seat Attachments

Standing up to ride your scooter can be tiring, particularly if you’re planning on traveling for an hour or more. Some scooters give you the option of fixing a seat onto the deck. This allows you to sit down and remain comfortable while your scooter puts the miles in.

Detachable seats are priced between $65 and $145.

Further Information:

Best Electric Scooters With Seats

Horn

Whether trekking along countryside roads or navigating busy city streets, a horn is an essential way of letting your fellow road users know that you’re there.

Typically, budget scooters don’t come equipped with a horn, but have a bell instead. Higher performance models, however, often come with motorcycle-grade horns that bellow out a loud 105db of honking action.

Customer Support:

Warranty

All trustworthy electric scooter brands offer a warranty to give you peace of mind if something goes wrong. We recommend that you don’t accept anything less than 6 months, although you should always try and get 12 months if possible.

It’s also important to note that not all warranties are the same. Before you buy a scooter, familiarize yourself with the terms of the warranty so you know exactly what it covers and what you’re liable for.

Some of the best warranties that we’ve had were from Apollo, Fluid Free Ride, and NAMI Electric.

Apollo offers 12-month warranty coverage against manufacturing defects and a 24-month protection plan for wear and tear.

Fluid Free Ride matches Apollo’s 12-month warranty but gives you a Lifetime Service Commitment that grants you 50% discount on all parts and labor once the warranty expires.

And, finally, NAMI Electric extends the warranty of any NAMI scooter for 3 years. This just goes to show how much investment NAMI place on quality.

DIY Support

In most cases, we recommend against any DIY fixes since they can make the problem worse and invalidate the warranty.

However, some retailers and brands offer technical support over the phone and email. Via this support, technical advisors can walk you through each step required to fix your scooter. This type of DIY assistance is reserved for issues that can be fixed without having to take the scooter apart. For instance, many new scooters come with plug-and-play connectors, meaning that you can request any replacement parts and install them yourself.

If you want to minimize the time and hassle of having to package your scooter up and send it away to a service center, then it’s worthwhile buying a scooter whose components are plug-and-play.

Technical Support

Before you buy a scooter, investigate how much support the brands or retailers are willing to give you after you make the purchase. Check that they have a dedicated technical support team, easily available contact details, and a history of helping customers solve product issues.

The very best brands and retailers will provide technical support via live chat, phone, and email, as well as repairs at their service centers.

If the retailer that you’ve chosen demonstrates any of the above, you can rely on them for post-purchase support.

Legality:

Where You Can Ride

Electric scooters are, for the most part, legal throughout the US. However, each state has specific restrictions that dictate where they can and cannot be ridden.

Scooter use is generally restricted to roads with some states banning sidewalks. However, some states only let you ride on roads that have a speed limit of 35 mph. Other states have no clear guidelines, and Delaware and Pennsylvania prohibited them altogether.

Further Information:

Street Legal Electric Scooters: Find a Scooter For Your State

Scooter Requirements

The legal requirements for electric scooters vary from state to state and can include a maximum top speed, motor size, wheel diameter, maximum weight, certain light setups, and brakes.

To see which electric scooters you can ride legally in each state, take a look at our guide.

Rider Requirements

The requirements for riders vary by state. Some require you to be a minimum age, have mandatory registrations, driving licenses, insurance, and wear a helmet.

Shortcut to Find the Perfect Electric Scooter

Choosing an electric scooter depends entirely on what you want to use your electric scooter for.

Each has its pros and cons, so the one that’s right for you is the one that ticks all – or at least, most – of your boxes.

For example, if you’re an experienced scooter rider that has a need for speed, you may want to opt for a scooter that has powerful dual motors. Alternatively, if you’re looking to alleviate the stress of your daily commute, chances are you’ll be after something light, portable, and resistant to the wear and tear of everyday riding.

To find an electric scooter that fits your requirements, either take a look at our best overall electric scooter guide or take a look at the guides below.

Choose By Rider:

Adults – Best electric scooters for adults under $1,000
Heavy Riders – Electric scooters that can support riders between 265 and 352 lbs
Students – Affordable and lightweight scooters that come with the ideal combination of speed and range that’s perfect for riding to, from, and across campus.
Teens – Best electric scooters based on age (13-18 years old).
Kids – Best electric scooters based on age (6-12 years old).

Choose By Type:

Cheap – Best value-for-money scooters under $650.
Commuting – Electric scooters that have the perfect mix of speed, range, weight, and portability.
Portable – The lightest and most compact folding electric scooters.
Fastest – The most powerful electric scooters that have wind-whipping top speeds and blistering acceleration rates.
Dual Motors – Electric scooters that have dual motors categorized by performance level.
Long Range – Electric scooters that can be ridden for 30+ miles, and have good ride and build quality.
All Terrain (Off-Road) – Electric scooters that have suspension systems, appropriate tires, and enough torque, motor, and braking power, as well as durability, to tackle varying terrain.
Suspension – From springs to hydraulics, these are the best electric scooters categorized by shock absorption.
Hill Climbing – Electric scooters that have enough power to scale moderate, steep, and extremely steep inclines.
Waterproof – Electric scooters that can be ridden in the rain.
Seated – Electric scooters that have either removable or permanent seats.
Street Legal – Electric scooters that are legal to ride (organised by state).
With Lights – Electric scooters that have the best lighting rigs and can be ridden safely at night.

The post Buying an Electric Scooter: A Beginner’s Guide appeared first on Electric Scooter Insider.

How to Ride an Electric Scooter: From Beginner to Expert

Josh Frisby — Thu, 21 Jul 2022 22:48:34 +0000

Starting on your electric scooter journey is one heck of a rush.

With new scooters constantly pushing the boundaries of performance, the thrill of the ride is only getting more intense.

But with great power comes great responsibility. Knowing how to ride your scooter is imperative to keeping you and others safe.

Following years of experience, our founder, resident expert, and leading authority in the electric scooter industry, Josh Frisby, will teach you everything you need to know about the do’s and don'ts of riding an electric scooter, as well as some advanced techniques.

How to Ride

See our step-by-step beginner's guide, as well as advanced techniques and how to avoid common riding mistakes.

How to Prepare

Learn about safety gear, how to familiarize yourself with scooter controls, and what pre-ride checks you should do.

How to Ride

In this section, you will find a step-by-step guide on how to ride as a beginner, discover advanced techniques to take your riding to the next level, and learn about the most common mistakes and how to avoid them.

Beginner’s Guide

Follow our step-by-step guide on how to ride an electric scooter.

Advanced Techniques

Discover 6 techniques that’ll make you look like an expert.

Riding Mistakes

Learn about the most common mistakes and how to avoid them.

Beginner’s Guide

Before learning any advanced techniques, you’ll want to practice the basics until they become second nature. Getting the hang of these fundamentals will build your confidence.

1. How to Launch the Scooter

Your scooter can either be launched by kicking off with one foot or from a standing position when in zero-start mode. Be careful on the throttle here.

2. Choosing a Riding Stance

You’ll want to get your riding stance spot on at this point. I always recommend placing your weakest foot at the front of the deck and your strongest foot at the rear.

Either use an L (or upside-down T) shape for foot placement or if you plan on riding aggressively, you should rest your rear foot on the kickplate pointing it forward.

3. Using the Scooter Controls to Moderate Power

While in motion, you can switch between riding modes, select the number of motors in use (single or dual), and put the scooter into Eco or Turbo mode.

As a beginner, I recommend starting the scooter in the lowest setting (i.e. the slowest riding mode with just one motor). Once you gain confidence, you can gradually increase the starting power before graduating to a wheel-spinning start.

You should never change to a lower speed setting or from dual to single motor when riding at high speeds – doing so will send you somersaulting over the handlebars, as well as destroy the motors. Always slow down before reducing your scooter’s power.

4. How to Turn Safely

You’re going to need to turn at some point, and your speed will have a bearing on how you do so.

Turning at Slow Speeds

In circumstances where you are riding very slow (i.e. less than 7 mph), then you should rely on handlebar rotation to turn.

As your speed increases beyond 10 mph, the best way to turn is to lean towards the direction that you want to go with minimal handlebar rotation.

Turning at Fast Speeds

To turn while riding at fast speeds, you need to lean into the turn without rotating the handlebars – much like you would on a motorcycle.

Bonus Tip: Be Mindful to Not Over-Rotate Handlebars

If you want to avoid my mistake of jack-knifing the scooter, you need to resist any urge to over-rotate the handlebars. As a rule of thumb, the faster you go, the less you should rotate the handlebars.

5. How to Brake Safely

Your brakes are vitally important in ensuring you stay safe during a ride, so mastering their application is key.

Using the Correct Braking Technique to Maintain Chassis Control

When the time comes to slow down or stop completely, you should always apply the rear brake first, and then the front.

If you were to use the front brake first, the scooter would pitch forward, making it difficult to apply any other input (like steering) until the chassis regains equilibrium. The optimal technique is to apply the rear brake a fraction before you apply the front brake. Dabbing the rear first makes the back of the scooter squat, so when you apply the front the whole scooter will squat more evenly. As a result. the front won’t pitch forward as quickly and the scooter will feel more settled.

How to Shift Your Weight to Maintain Balance

An important aspect of braking safely is the effective use of your body weight. Shifting your weight down and over the rear wheel helps to maintain balance – especially during emergency stops – and increases braking power. This is because more weight is applied over the rear wheel which equates to more downward force and enhances traction.

Expert Guide (Advanced Techniques)

At this point, you’re prime and ready to drop jaws to the floor with some serious riding skills. Here are 6 techniques that’ll make you look like an expert.

How to Carve (+Best Tire Profile For Handling)

Carving is a technique that comes as second nature to all expert riders.

While rotating the handlebars may seem like the most natural way to turn, it will significantly reduce the speed and smoothness at which you can ride.

Instead, you need to lean into turns without rotating the handlebars. In other words, use your weight and gravity to point the scooter in the direction that you want to go.

Once you build up confidence, you can achieve a flow-state-like riding experience as you slalom your way through city streets.

It’s important to note, though, that not all tires are created equal when it comes to carving. Ideally, you’ll want tires with rounded front-on profiles as opposed to ones that are square. This is because the curvature of rounded tires can maintain traction even at acute angles. This is key to carving.

Square tires simply aren’t as effective. As you lean into corners, the tires roll onto their edges, meaning grip is lost causing them to slide out from under you.

How to Whip and Skid the Rear Wheel

With carving mastered, you’ll want to try your hand at a whip and skid of the rear wheel.

First, you need to understand which foot is your strongest. For me, my right foot is stronger than my left.

Following this, you need to assume a confident stance. For those of you who are right-footed, you’ll want to place it at the rear of the deck with your left foot at the front.

Then, when riding at a slow to moderate pace, you’ll want to lean left as though you are about to make a left turn. The reason for leaning left and not right is because you need to maintain a stance that is open and allows you to leverage your body weight while whipping the rear end of the scooter out. If you were to lean to the right your legs would become crossed, making it hard to maintain control.

After you have leaned left, quickly shift your body weight towards the back of the scooter, apply the rear brake, and push the deck out from under you with your rear foot.

How to Do an Endo

This technique is a classic and can be executed by bending your knees, applying the front brake, and keeping your body weight in the center of the scooter. Just don’t try doing this at speed.

How to Pop a Wheelie

No guide on advanced techniques would be complete without reference to wheelies, and again, this is reasonably simple to do with a bit of practice.

With your strongest foot planted on the kickplate, lean back as you hit the throttle to pull your front wheel up. Here, the key is to keep your weight firmly fixed at the rear to maintain a careful balancing act.

Customize Power Settings For Your Riding Environment

Having earned the status of an expert rider, you’ll want to explore your scooter’s power settings to deliver a riding experience that is primed for your environment.

The good news is that most performance scooters come with displays that have P-settings. These are pre-programmed settings that allow you to make simple adjustments like altering the top speed, as well as the strength of acceleration.

Some advanced electric scooters – like the NAMI Burn-e 2 – permit you to control the flow of power to each of its motors independently. As a result, if you like to set off with a wheel spin, you can funnel more power to the rear motor. Alternatively, if live in a hilly area, you could change the configuration of the motors to have more power running to the front motor to help pull you up hills as opposed to pushing you up using the rear motor.

Add Preload to the Suspension to Accommodate Your Weight

Riders come in all weights and sizes, so adjusting the suspension to suit your profile can elevate your riding experience significantly. The good news is that, on some scooters, you can add preload to the suspension.

For instance, say you have a scooter that supports 265 lbs of rider weight and you are nearing its weight limit. Here, you can add preload to prevent the springs from bottoming out. The more preload added, the greater the force needed to compress the springs.

Adding preload can be done by tightening the springs using a C-Spanner.

Riding Mistakes & How to Avoid Them

No matter how experienced the rider, we are all human. Mistakes happen. We’ll end this guide by spotlighting a few of the most common ones, and how you can avoid them.

Not Wearing the Appropriate Safety Gear

First and foremost, never go for a ride without wearing the correct safety gear. As already stated, this means a full-face helmet, gloves, motorcycle jacket and trousers, and extra padding on the knees and elbows.

Riding One-Handed

Riding an electric scooter one-handed is an entirely different ball game from riding a bicycle on-handed.

Because the wheels on electric scooters are small, they are hard to control with just one hand, especially at speed. Ever seen a motorcycle lose control and wobble from side to side? The same happens on a scooter when the front wheel isn’t fully controlled.

Riding one-handed at speed is a recipe for disaster, so just don’t do it.

Over-Rotating the Handlebars

Turning the handlebars feels like a natural movement, but if you are riding above 10 mph, avoid rotating them overzealously.

Over-rotating can cause the front wheel to become locked perpendicular to the chassis and as a result, lead to jackknifing.

Pulling the Brakes Too Hard Without Shifting Body Weight

If you pull on the brakes too hard without shifting your body weight over the rear wheel, you will inevitably end up over the handlebars.

Using Your Rear Fender As the Main Brake

While some scooters come with stomp brakes (aka fender brakes), we do not recommend using them as the main source of braking because they can lock the rear tire and cause it to skid.

In some circumstances, the tire can get so hot that it melts and becomes misshapen – this is especially the case with solid rubber tires.

Riding on the Wrong Terrain

Always do your research when purchasing a scooter and stick to the terrain that it's made for.

Attempting to ride on terrain beyond your scooter’s remit is a recipe for failure. You’ll be surprised how the constant vibrations of off-road tracks can rattle the bolts, screws, and other components of street-grade scooters lose.

Wearing Headphones

An obvious error people often make is wearing headphones when riding. This is incredibly dangerous – you must always be acutely aware of your surroundings and possible hazards – especially when in a city.

Not Abiding By the Regulations

Having a full and detailed understanding of the regulations that determine whether you can legally ride an electric scooter is vital.

Be sure to familiarize yourself with the following:

Where you can ride (i.e. sidewalks and streets)
Scooter requirements (i.e. maximum weight, maximum top speed, motor size, wheel diameter, front and rear lights, suitable brakes)
Rider requirements (i.e. registrations, licenses, insurance, minimum age, helmet regulations)

For more info, read our guide to street-legal electric scooters.

Placing Feet Side-by-Side

Never, ever ride a scooter with your feet side-by-side. While this may appear to be a great way to balance your weight, it is, in fact, the worst.

Ultimately, riding in this stance reduces control over the chassis. Your strongest foot should always be behind your weaker one.

Incorrectly Distributing Your Weight

Whether you are accelerating, turning, braking, or just cruising, distributing your weight correctly plays a key role in your ability to control the scooter.

For reference, the best ways to shift your weight are as follows:

Acceleration – Shift your weight forward and lean into (not on) the handlebars while adopting an aggressive riding stance.
Turning – Shift your weight slightly forward and in the direction that you want to turn. For example, if you want to make a left turn, you should use gravity to your advantage and lean to the left.
Braking – Shift your weight back and down over the rear wheel. This will maximize control and eliminate any risk of you going over the handlebars.
Cruising – Shift your weight slightly forward and lean into (not on) the handlebars.

Attempting to Mount Curbs and Other Obstacles

Forget trying to mount curbs and other obstacles unless you own a scooter with big wheels and considerable ground clearance.

Electric scooter batteries are often stored in the deck and unless there’s enough ground clearance, the bottom of the deck and battery can take some serious hits and become damaged.

Treating Your Scooter Like a Stunt-Bike

Electric scooters aren't made to be ridden recklessly and in some circumstances, doing stunts can cause them to break.

For example, the motion of jumping and landing requires you to pull back on the handlebars with extreme force. The result can be a snapped stem.

Ultimately, you should avoid exerting unnecessary stress on your scooter to keep it in one piece.

How to Prepare For a Ride

Before any burning of rubber or turning of heads, it’s imperative to prepare correctly for your ride. So, here’s everything you need to consider when it comes to preparation.

Safety Gear

Learn about electric scooter safety gear and what we recommend.

Scooter Controls

Learn how to familiarize yourself with your scooter's controls.

Pre-Ride Checks

Learn which pre-ride checks you should do to be safe.

Wear Protective Safety Gear

Though riding an electric scooter is perhaps the most fun you will ever have in your life, it’s also replete with danger. Some scooters can go as fast as a car, and even the slowest ones can have a zip in their step. It’s, therefore, crucial to wear the right safety gear. Here’s a story to emphasize my point:

Importance of Safety Gear: My Experience (Broken Bones…Ouch)

I've tested countless electric scooters and ridden thousands of miles, yet despite being fully aware of the safety gear that I should wear – one day I chose not to and regretted it.

It was a beautiful day – the sun was shining, birdsong filled the air, and I was testing a new scooter on a trail that runs alongside a reservoir.

In my haste to capitalize on these picturesque surroundings and get some cool shots for a video, I hopped straight on the scooter without putting my safety gear on.

Twenty minutes later, I took one hand off the handlebars and lost control causing the scooter to jack-knife. I was thrown over the handlebars, flew through the air, hit the ground hard, and skidded across harsh, rocky terrain.

In a couple of seconds, I had snapped a collar bone, broken an elbow, suffered severe internal bruising on my palms and wrists, and received a gravel rash – all on the same side. All of this was from a crash at around 15-20 mph. Luckily, I had a helmet on which saved my head from hitting any rocks.

Recovery took 8 months and I still have issues with my elbow. Needless to say, this experience highlights the importance of wearing full safety gear – no matter the scooter or your experience level. Now, let’s look at the gear you’ll need.

Helmets:

Purchasing a helmet should be the first box on your preparation checklist. As I’ve touched upon already, wearing one is an absolute non-negotiable. Don’t even think about placing a foot on an electric scooter unless you’re donning protection for your head. But what helmet should you opt for?

Full-Face Helmet (With Visor) – Recommended

Our recommendation would be a full-face helmet with a visor. These grant you complete protection above the neck.

A decent one – like the BELL Qualifier DLX MIPS – will be lightweight, padded, and breathable to ensure you can enjoy your ride in safety and comfort. The interior should also be fully removable and washable, while a padded wind collar will drastically reduce noise as you put the pedal to the metal.

One of the most important features of a helmet to look out for is MIPS. MIPS stands for Multi-directional Impact Protection and is a safety technology used in helmets for cycling, motorbikes, equestrian, and even construction.

The MIPS system is a low friction layer that allows for a sliding motion of 10 to 15 mm in all directions. This motion reduces the transfer of rotational motion onto your brain which can otherwise lead to concussion and serious traumatic brain injuries.

Full-Face Helmet (Without Visor)

Another option is a full-face helmet without a visor, though this leaves your face exposed and vulnerable in the event of a crash.

Consequently, we always recommend going with a helmet that comes with a visor.

You can, however, add goggles to this setup to give you more protection.

Regular bike helmet

Some people will tell you that a regular bike helmet is sufficient. I don’t recommend these, especially when you consider that some scooters can reach speeds beyond 30 mph.

While a bike helmet will shield your skull, your jaw, chin, cheekbones, and face will all be exposed in the event of an impact. Quite simply, your entire head and face should be protected.

Gloves:

Often, it's your hands that will bear the brunt of an impact. Injuring your hands is a serious matter that will affect everyday life, so you want to ensure they’re fully protected.

Full – Recommended

Full gloves will protect those precious digits as well as your palms. A good pair will come with palm sliders, which offer an extra layer of defense against broken wrists and snapped ligaments.

If – God forbid – you come off your scooter, a natural response is to reach out with your hands to break your fall, but if you are wearing gloves that don’t have scaphoid protection, the glove will likely grip the ground causing your forearm to rotate over your wrist causing hyper-extension.

On the other hand (no pun intended), if you have a pair of gloves with palm sliders, the small plastic sliders significantly reduce the risk of hyper-extension since they allow your hands to slide in the momentum of the fall.

Most full gloves will also come with padding around the knuckles, breathable fabric for ventilation, and even touch screen material on the thumb and index finger so you can control your phone without taking the gloves off.

Fingerless

You may think that fingerless gloves are comfier, cooler, and more convenient. None of these perceived pros outweigh the cons. Your fingers require as much protection as the rest of your hands, so don’t make the mistake of going fingerless.

Upper-Body Protection:

You’re whizzing along at 20 mph with a cool breeze rippling in the air. The temptation may be to wear minimal protection and enjoy that invigorating rush. We’re here to tell you that not wearing any upper-body protection is a risk not worth taking. So, what are the options?

Full Protection

The truth is anything can happen on an electric scooter, and your upper body is just as likely to suffer as any other part of you in the event of an accident. That’s why we suggest opting for full protection.

Motorcycle Jacket – Recommended

I always recommend wearing a motorcycle jacket as they come with elbow, shoulder, and back pads. They are also abrasion-resistant, meaning no road or gravel burn and more shielding for your skin.

In short, motorcycle jackets offer complete protection.

Body Armour

Though body armor provides considerable padding on your back, chest, shoulders, and elbows, it doesn’t offer the resistance to potentially skin-shredding skids. Stick to motorcycle jackets.

Body Part Protection

The alternative to wearing full upper-body protection is to purchase padding for your most at-risk body parts: wrists, elbows, and back. To put it simply, we wouldn’t recommend this on its own, though some options will serve as an added layer of protection.

Wrist Braces

Your wrists are constantly under duress when riding an electric scooter – whether you’re pulling on the brakes, steering, or revving the throttle. They’re also likely to suffer if you crash, so investing in some reinforcements could make all the difference.

Elbow Pads

Ever cracked an elbow? No? Keep it that way! We’d always recommend donning pads to ensure your ride doesn’t end in agony.

Most elbow pads also offer protection for the top half of your arm.

Back Pads

There’s no such thing as being too safe on an electric scooter that can hit the same speeds as a car or motorbike – and this is particularly true when it comes to your back.

As a rule of thumb, choose a back pad that is soft, supple, and comfortable to wear, but will harden and protect you on impact – like a D30 Back Protector. These types of pads disperse impact and minimize the energy transmitted to the spine.

Lower-Body Protection

Protecting your legs and hips from the full force of an impact is just as important as shielding your upper body – we depend on our lower body to get around, after all.

Full Protection

Your legs are likely to take a lot of punishment in the event of an accident, so shielding them is a must. So, what should you go for?

Motorcycle Trousers – Recommended

You’ve got the jacket – now it’s time to complete your look with motorcycle trousers.

They not only offer all-important knee and hip padding but a good pair will be abrasion-resistant thanks to a lining of kevlar.

Body Part Protection

As with your upper body, there’s also a range of options for protecting lower body parts.

Padded Shorts

Padded shorts will do a sterling job at protecting your hips, tailbone, and upper legs. The problem is that your knees and lower legs will be left woefully exposed. Skin tears, bruising, and broken bones are all left in the mix.

Hip Pads

Hips are often an afterthought but they are crucial to your mobility and are vulnerable to impact, so ensuring they’re protected by padding is an absolute necessity.

Knee Pads

Knee pads – we’ve all used them, whether that be riding your first bike or rollerskating. Similar to hip pads, we recommend wearing some, but the reality is you’re still leaving the rest of your legs exposed, and asphalt takes no prisoners. For more comprehensive protection you can pair knee pads with motorcycle trousers.

Familiarize Yourself With Your Scooter’s Controls

So, you’re decked out from head-to-toe in protective gear that would flummox the Terminator. The next box on your safety checklist is the scooter’s controls. It’s important to know exactly what you’re dealing with when revving the throttle, as any unwanted surprises could see you flying through the air with all the grace of a drunk gymnast.

Start Modes

First, you want to familiarize yourself with your scooter’s start modes. There are two possibilities.

Kick-to-Start

Kick-to-start means you will be required to plant one foot firmly on the deck and push off with the other. Typically, you’ll need to hit 3 mph for the motor(s) to fire up.

Zero Start

Zero start, on the other hand, will enable your scooter’s motors to engage from a standing position. Here, caution is vital. Ensure your footing and riding stance is solid, and go easy on the throttle to avoid careening into an unforgiving tree.

Motor Power Controls

With your start mode figured out, next you’ll want to wrap your head around the scooter’s motor power controls.

Riding Modes

Each scooter has different riding modes, but the most common is a set of three. Each one summons higher speeds.

Familiarizing yourself with the differences in power will help you to stay firmly in control.

Dual & Single Motor Buttons

If you have a dual-motor electric scooter, it will come with single and dual motor buttons. Quite simply, these grant you the option of using one or both motors, which will determine the amount of power at your disposal.

As a rule, don’t ever switch to single-motor mode when riding fast because it will forcibly eject you off the scooter as well as destroy the motors. Instead, keep the scooter in dual-motor mode, slow down, and then when you are riding below 20 mph, you can safely switch to single-motor mode.

Eco & Turbo Buttons

Eco is used for conserving battery usage and limits your speed and motor capacity.

Turbo mode, on the other hand, lets the dog off the leash and allows you to hit top speeds.

Throttle Type

Different scooters use different throttles, and the responsiveness of your throttle may depend on its type.

Thumb

Many entry-level scooters will come with a thumb throttle as these are the most ergonomic and easy to use. They allow you to maintain a firm grip on the handlebars, while also enabling a smoother modulation of speed.

With thumb throttles offering the most ergonomic use, their popularity has risen in recent years and as a result, higher-performance scooters have begun to incorporate them into their design.

Finger

Finger throttles tend to be integrated into a display – like the QS-S4 or EY3 – and are found on performance scooters (i.e. those that reach 30 mph and beyond).

While these have, in the past, been the preferred throttle type for performance scooters, they have their drawbacks. Most notably, they can cause your hand to cramp since you have to adopt a claw-like grip to use them. Similarly, because their positioning in a scooter’s cockpit is in front of the right handgrip, they have been known to interfere with the ability to pull on the brake lever below them.

Twist

Twist throttles are the rarest of throttle breeds, but offer good all-round control.

Effectively bringing motorcycle capabilities to an electric scooter, they work as a movable part of the handgrip, allowing you to twist it with your full hand to maintain a firm hold. This can, though, inhibit your capacity to use the brakes when accelerating. Care should also be taken when grabbing hold of the scooter when stationary.

Brake Controls

As well as the throttle, the type of brakes depends on the scooter that you have and the power needed to slow it down. There are varying combinations of braking setups and familiarizing yourself with yours is crucial

Mechanical Brake Levers

Most electric scooters utilize mechanical brake levers, which are positioned on each side of the handlebars and function in the same way as brakes on a bicycle.

Hand-activated brakes are safer and more effective than the foot brakes you’ll find on scooters at the lower, entry-level end of the spectrum.

For context, the most common brakes that are controlled via levers on electric scooters are as follows:

Cable-actuated discs
Cable-actuated hydraulic discs
Drums

Foot Brake

A foot brake takes the form of a rear fender that the rider pushes down on to immobilize the rear wheel. These perform poorly in wet weather and can create unsafe braking conditions as they become locked and skid.

Electronic Paddle

Electronic paddle brakes are generally reserved for lower-powered scooters that don’t require as much mechanical braking power.

In a scooter’s cockpit, the paddle will typically be found on the left and should be used as a backup while using the mechanical brakes.

Anti-Locking Brake System (ABS)

ABS works by sensing when the wheels are about to lock.

It rapidly reduces and increases the braking pressure multiple times per second, applying the optimum pressure. This allows the wheels to keep moving as the scooter slows down, instead of locking up.

It's important to be aware of whether your scooter comes with this braking mechanism because, when in action, you’ll feel a vibrating and shuddering effect.

Pre-Ride Checks

You’re dressed for safety and are familiar with your scooter’s controls. Now it’s time for the all-important pre-ride checks. Here there are a few key fundamentals.

Frame

Your scooter’s frame is its skeleton – any weaknesses, and you could be in for a world of pain. So, what do you need to check?

Ensure Handlebars & Controls Are Fixed in Place

First off, make sure everything is fixed firmly in place – pay particular attention to the handlebar controls as any looseness could cause an accident when riding at high speed.

Your brake levers, throttle, and other scooter controls should all be tightly fastened.

Secure the Folding Mechanism

The last thing you want is for the stem to wobble – or even give way – when you’re in full flow. Make sure any safety pins are in place and clamps are secured.

Tires

If your frame is its skeleton, then the tires are your scooter’s feet. You will therefore want to check that they are in full working order.

Ensure Tires Have Been Installed Correctly

Have they been mounted in the correct direction, as determined by the tread pattern? Getting this wrong can significantly impact your scooter’s handling and stability.

Directional tires will often exhibit an arrowhead-like tread pattern. This pattern determines the direction that they should be mounted. For instance, if you were to look straight on at a tire, the arrow shape should be pointing down to the ground.

Pump Tires Up to the Recommended Pressure

Ensure both tires are pumped up to the recommended pressure.

This will vary depending on the scooter, so always refer to the manual.

In general, the recommended pressure for electric scooter tires sits somewhere between 40 and 50 PSI.

Check the Condition of the Tire Tread

Checking the condition of the tire treads is a simple step to ensure your scooter is fit to ride.

If they’re too worn (i.e. the shape of the tire is malformed or it has chunks missing), this will inhibit your control since traction and grip will be compromised.

Brakes – Check They Work

You’ll want to check the brakes are working. Try and elevate your scooter so both wheels are off the ground, then pull on the throttle to get movement in the wheels, and test each brake independently.

Motors – Check They Work

As with the brakes, it’s best to elevate the scooter and test the motors. Revving the throttle while clicking through the different motor modes (single and dual) will reveal their working status.

Battery – Ensure the It Is Appropriately Charged

The final step is to check that your battery has enough juice in the tank. The last thing you want is to be unexpectedly stranded.

The post How to Ride an Electric Scooter: From Beginner to Expert appeared first on Electric Scooter Insider.

How Much Do Electric Scooters Cost?

Josh Frisby — Sun, 24 Feb 2019 18:48:06 +0000

Electric scooters cost between $150 and $6,500.

For a more specific answer, we’ve provided an in-depth breakdown of the different costs of electric scooters based on scooter type, rider, and use case.

We’ve also outlined maintenance costs, and shared the key factors that affect an electric scooter’s price tag.

Cost by Type

From budget to performance, see how much different models costs.

Cost by Rider

From kids to adults, see how prices vary dependent on rider.

Cost by Use Case

From fast to off-road, see how prices vary dependent on use.

Charging Costs

Learn how to calculate the cost of charging your electric scooter.

Maintenance Costs

Discover how much it costs to maintain and repair a scooter.

Cost Factors

A run down of the key factors that determine a scooter’s price.

Cost by Type

Electric scooters costs based on the category are as follows:

Category	Price Range
Budget	$300 – $700
Commuter	$450 – $1,500
Performance	$1,500 – $2,500
High-Performance	$2,500 – $3,500
Ultra-Performance	$3,500+

Budget

Budget electric scooters cost between $300 and $700.

These are basic models that have been designed to minimize cost while retaining as many key features as possible.

They are ideal for beginners because of their low speed, lack of complicated extra features, and cheap price tags.

Commuter

Priced from $450 to $1,500, commuter scooters are designed to be lightweight and portable.

They typically have a single motor, large batteries, and are equipped with frames that can easily handle the wear and tear of everyday use.

Performance

Performance scooters are significantly more expensive than both budget and commuter models, retailing between $1,500 and $2,500.

They have powerful motors, can reach up to 40 mph, and are best suited to riders who have some experience and want a fast-paced ride.

At this price, you get higher quality components – including suspension and semi-hydraulic brakes – as well as a range of extra features.

High-Performance

You can expect to pay between $2,500 and $3,500 for a high-performance scooter.

These can do everything performance models can, but they increase the power to an entirely new level.

They have large frames, can reach top speeds of up to 50 mph, and keep the wheels rolling for 40-90 miles. As a result of their big build and plethora of features, they are versatile and can tackle various terrain.

Ultra-Performance

Ultra-performance models are the highest class of scooter and cost more than $3,500.

All can reach top speeds of 50 mph, while some can exceed 75 mph. As to be expected, they are equipped with the highest-quality components – meaning hydraulic suspension, hydraulic brakes, and huge batteries that can deliver anywhere from 70 to 140 miles of range.

They’re also extremely large and heavy.

Costs by Rider

Electric scooters costs based on the rider are as follows:

By Rider	Price Range
Kids	$150 – $400
Teenagers	$250 – $850
Students & College	350 – $650
Adults	$350 – $1,000
Heavy Adults	$600 – $3,500

Kids

Kid's scooters are simple in their design, small, and have low power. All of this combines to keep the price range between $150 and $400.

Teenagers

Scooters for teenagers can cost anywhere between $250 and $850.

They’re cheap because younger riders are best suited to scooters that are both lightweight and don't exceed a top speed of 20 mph.

As the recommended age of an electric scooter goes up, so too does the price. For instance, models made for 13-14-year-olds costs $250-$380, while those for 15-16-year-olds cost $300-$600.

Students & College

Electric scooters for college students cost between $350 and $650.

They are affordable, lightweight, and come with the ideal combination of speed and range that’s perfect for riding to, from, and across campus.

Adults

Electric scooters that have been designed for adults come in a broad range of styles and use cases.

Consequently, you can get one at almost any price from $350 up to $6,500. However, you can find a reliable entry-level scooter that’s perfectly suited to beginners for under $1,000.

Heavy Adults

For between $600 and $3,500, you can purchase various scooters that have been built to accommodate heavy riders.

Heavier riders need a model with a high load-bearing capacity and a big frame. Consequently, these electric scooters can support 265-352 lbs of weight, come with wide dimensions, and are made of strong materials.

Cost by Use Case

Electric scooters costs based on the use case are as follows:

By Use Case	Price Range
Portable	$450 – $1,000
Commuting	$450 – $1,500
All-Weather (Waterproof)	$450 – $3,500
Seated	$600 – $3,500
Long-Range	$600 – $3,500
Suspension	$800 – $3,500
Fast	$1,000 – $3,500
Dual-Motor	$1,000 – $3,500
Hill Climbing	$1,000 – $3,500
All-Terrain (Off-Road)	$1,000 – $3,500

Portable

Portable scooters cost between $450 and $1,000.

They combine lightweight frames with quick folding mechanisms, collapsible handlebars, and telescopic stems.

Commuting

With the perfect mix of speed, range, portability, and all-weather credentials, commuter scooters typically cost between $450 and $1,500.

All-Weather (Waterproof)

Most waterproof scooters cost between $450 and $3,500.

While no scooter is entirely waterproof, many come with weather-resistant ratings – known as IP ratings – demonstrating how good they are at keeping moisture out.

A good-quality scooter will have a high IP rating, yet it’s not so much the rating that determines the cost of the scooter but rather the rest of its design – including strong brakes, tire performance (type, size, tread, and traction), braking power, deck grip, and fender placement.

Seated

Seated scooters tend to cost between $600 and $3,500.

Not everyone is comfortable standing up on a scooter, particularly if the journey is a long one. Some scooters come with optional seats that can be purchased and fitted, while others come with permanent seats already in place.

For context, those with attachable seats cost within the region of $600-$3,500, while those with built-in seats cost between $800 and $1,700.

Long Range

Depending on the size of the battery, the price of a long-range electric scooter can differ. In general, though, they cost between $600 and $3,500.

The longer the range of the scooter, the larger the battery it has, and the higher its price.

For instance, a scooter with a 30-mile range can cost $600, while a model with 90 miles costs $3,499. There are some exceptions, though, with some long-range scooters capable of a 60-mile maximum range being available to buy for just $1,500.

Suspension

You can buy a scooter with suspension for $800 – $3,500.

Suspension systems can range from basic springs and air shocks, to fully adjustable hydraulic coil-over-shocks. The better the suspension system, the more plush the ride.

Manufacturers of budget scooters tend to avoid suspension since it inflates the cost of the scooter. As a result, the vast majority of electric scooters with good shock absorption capabilities are higher up the price scale.

Fast

Fast electric scooters can have price tags that start at $999 and exceed $6,500.

As a rule of thumb, those that have a top speed of 30 to 40 mph cost between $1,000 and $2,000, while those that can hit 30-45 mph cost $2,000 – $3,500. Anything more powerful (i.e. topping speeds of 45 mph) costs upwards of $3,500.

The faster a scooter is, the more expensive it’s likely to be. This is because fast scooters need larger motors, bigger batteries, and durable frames that are capable of withstanding the pressures of high-speed riding.

Dual Motor

Home to two motors – one in the front wheel hub and one in the rear – dual-motor models vary in their power, and therefore, so too does their price.

Good quality models typically cost within the region of $1,000 – $3,500.

Like fast electric scooters, the price of dual-motor models is dependent on the power of the motors (including voltage, watts, nominal, and peak power).

Hill Climbing

Powerful electric scooters that can climb hills will set you back between $1,000 and $3,500.

Climbing hills requires powerful motors and batteries. Consequently, the steeper the hill, the more expensive the scooter.

All-Terrain (Off-Road)

Electric scooters that have been designed for off-road use are equipped with suspension systems, terrain-agnostic tires, and durable frames, as well as plenty of motor, battery, and braking power.

As a result, the price of a good-quality off-road scooter starts at $1,000 and reaches $3,500.

Charging Costs

How Much Does It Cost to Charge an Electric Scooter?

If you know the size of your scooter’s battery and your local electricity rate, it’s easy to calculate how much it will cost to charge your scooter.

In brief, you need to multiply the kilowatt-hour (kWh) value of your scooter’s battery by the cost per kilowatt-hour (kWh) of electricity.

First, you need to calculate your battery’s watt-hours (Wh). To do this, multiply the battery’s voltage (V) by its amp-hours (Ah).

Next, divide this figure by 1,000 to convert it into kilowatt-hours.

Finally, multiply your battery’s kilowatt-hour value by your local electricity rate, and viola, you have the charging cost.

Example:

For example, we’ll use the EMOVE Cruiser and its 52V 30Ah battery.

Calculating the battery’s Wh value:

52V x 30Ah = 1560 Wh

Calculating the battery’s kWh value:

1560 Wh / 1000 = 1.56 kWh

Calculating the cost of charging the battery:

According to Save on Energy, the average residential electricity rate in the U.S. is 15.46 cents per kilowatt-hour ($0.1546).

1.56 kWh x $0.1546 per kWh = $0.24

So, with the calculations complete, it costs just $0.24 to charge the EMOVE Cruiser’s large 52V 30Ah battery. For context, this size battery can deliver up to 62 miles of ride time, which equates to a cost of just $0.004 per mile.

Charge Cost Table (Based on Popular Battery Sizes)

Battery Size	Battery (kWh)	Avg. Electricity Rate (kWh)	Charge Cost
36V 5.2Ah	0.19	$0.15	$0.03
36V 7.5Ah	0.27	$0.15	$0.04
36V 10.4Ah	0.37	$0.15	$0.06
48V 13Ah	0.62	$0.15	$0.10
48V 15.6Ah	0.75	$0.15	$0.12
52V 18.2Ah	0.95	$0.15	$0.15
52V 20.8Ah	1.08	$0.15	$0.17
52V 23.4Ah	1.22	$0.15	$0.19
60V 24.5Ah	1.47	$0.15	$0.23
60V 28Ah	1.68	$0.15	$0.26
72V 32Ah	2.30	$0.15	$0.36
72V 35Ah	2.52	$0.15	$0.39

Per Mile Costs: Electric Scooters vs Cars

To give you an idea of how the cost of charging an electric scooter compares to other vehicle types, let's look at the most popular car in the USA, the Ford F-150.

A 2019 F-150 has a fuel tank with a 26-gallon capacity. The average cost for a gallon of diesel in the US (at the time of writing) is $5.319.

To fill the tank, it costs $138.29. Based on the average of 24 miles per gallon, the F-150 can cover a maximum of 624 miles on a single tank of diesel. This means that it costs 22 cents per mile.

Electric scooters are, therefore, on average, 98-99% cheaper to operate than cars.

Maintenance Costs

Servicing & Repair Costs

As with any vehicle, an electric scooter requires occasional maintenance and repair to keep it road-worthy. This can include a full service or replacement and repair of key components such as the display, brakes, controllers, or motors.

Some retailers include service packages or discounted rates on repairs if you buy your scooter from them. For example, Fluid Free Ride sells all their scooters with a 12-month warranty and Lifetime Service Commitment that entitles you to 50% off parts and labor.

This type of deal is well worth taking advantage of because when we spoke to a range of retailers and asked for their hourly labor costs we found that they can go as high as $170 per hour.

To give you an idea of how much you can expect to pay for certain servicing jobs (excluding the cost of the parts), see below:

Service	Cost
Tightening Stem	$35 – $55
Replacing Display	$35 – $55
Replacing Brake Calipers	$35 – $55
Replacing Brake Pads	$55 – $75
Brake Tuning	$35 – $75
Replacing Horn / Buttons / Voltmeters	$35 – $75
Tire Changes	$75 – $150
Replacing Controller	$110 – $225
Replacing Motor	$110 – $225
Replacing Stem	$250 – $500

Cost Factors

There’s no one key feature that determines the price of a scooter. Instead, it’s a cumulative effect created by the value of each component.

Below, we’ve outlined the key factors that impact a scooter’s price.

Power:

Motor Power

The higher the motor power, the faster the top speed and acceleration.

Consequently, scooters with larger motors are more expensive.

Battery Power

The larger the battery’s energy capacity, the longer the scooter’s maximum range.

Scooters with larger batteries cost more.

Braking Power

The more advanced the brakes, the shorter the scooter’s stopping distance.

Powerful scooters have high speeds and produce lots of momentum. As a result, dual hydraulic brakes are required to bring them to a quick stop. These brakes sit at the top of the price scale.

On the other hand, less powerful scooters may only be equipped with a single brake – such as a disc or drum – while others rely on a combination of mechanical and electronic brakes. Under these circumstances, braking systems cost less.

Extended Warranties

Most scooter manufacturers and retailers offer a standard warranty to protect you against faults in the first 12 months, but some also let you purchase additional protection from Extend.

This is an insurance policy that acts as an extended warranty to cover your scooter should something go wrong. Additional cover can be bought for 1, 2, or 3 years and includes mechanical failure, electrical failure, and defects caused by normal wear and tear. It doesn’t cover accidental damage or damage resulting from misuse, though.

How much the cover costs depend on the size and complexity of the scooter. For example, Voro Motors offers one year of Extend cover for the EMOVE Cruiser for $84.99, two years for $139, and three years for $189. By comparison, they offer one year of Extend cover for the Kaabo Wolf King GT for $149, two years for $259, and three years for $369.

Ride Quality:

Suspension

As the shock absorption capabilities of a suspension system increase, so too does the ride quality.

From springs and air shocks to rubber cartridges and hydraulic pistons, there’s a vast array of suspension systems. As the system becomes more complex, they become more expensive.

Cheaper scooters have simple spring-based setups while more expensive models use systems that include hydraulics, swingarms, and multiple springs.

Similarly, scooters with suspension at the front and rear cost more than those that have either or.

Tire Type & Size

Tire type and size have a strong correlation to the cost of a scooter.

Kid’s scooters and basic budget models have cheap solid or foam tires.

Higher-quality budget scooters, as well as commuter and performance models, have tubed pneumatic tires filled with air.

The most expensive scooters – including high-performance and ultra-performance models – tend to be equipped with tubeless pneumatic tires. Some of these will also feature no-flat designs, meaning they are lined with a layer of slime that flows into penetrated areas to prevent punctures and flats.

Another indicator of a scooter’s price is the quality of the tires. While most are made from standard nylon, some expensive models – like the NAMI Burn-e 2 – can be equipped with PMT tires to deliver enhanced grip, handling, and eliminate wheel spin.

The size of a tire is indicative of price, too. Since electric scooter motors are mounted in the hub of a wheel, a larger tire indicates more motor power, and therefore a higher price.

Build Quality:

OEM

OEM stands for original equipment manufacturer and is defined as a company whose goods are used as components in the products of another company.

In the electric scooter world, OEM models are mass-produced scooters that are sold to different brands. These brands then rebrand the scooters and sell them.

Companies use OEM models to save money and sell cheap scooters. However, because the production of them is for the mass market, the quality control isn’t always as good as scooters that have been built using proprietary designs. This is especially true when brands buy thousands of OEM scooters and attempt to pack them with motors and batteries from different suppliers.

Proprietary Design

Scooters made from a proprietary design are unique to the manufacturer with all their parts being purposefully designed to fit together.

This process is expensive but results in high build quality. Many of Apollo’s more expensive models have been made this way, and their popularity speaks to the success of this technique.

CNC Machining

Scooters made using CNC (computer numerical control) techniques are machined from a single piece of raw material (i.e. aluminum alloy) in a series of digitally linked steps.

This means that they’re built to an exceptional degree of accuracy resulting in perfectly fitting parts and exceptionally strong joints.

While this is a relatively quick process, it requires lots of expensive equipment and complex programming. Consequently, scooters made using CNC machining are particularly pricey.

Materials

The better the materials used to make a scooter, the more durable they are, and the greater the build quality.

Some cheap scooters are made from heavy metals such as steel, but most are made from high-quality aluminum alloy. More expensive models, however, are fitted with carbon fiber parts.

The strength of the material used depends on the scooter. For an entry-level scooter that can reach 20 mph, standard aerospace-grade aluminum is suitable, but for an ultra-performance scooter, reinforced aluminum alloys are needed to ensure it can withstand the pressures of high speeds.

Extra Features:

Displays

While cheap displays may just show one or two pieces of information (usually speed or battery life), more expensive ones will be larger, show lots of details about your ride, and even allow you to customize some of your scooter’s settings.

You may also find that the displays on higher-priced scooters are more colorful and easier to view in direct light.

Some top-of-the-range scooters even have custom-designed displays, such as the HEX command center on the Apollo Phantom or the TFT on the Wolf King GT.

However, while some manufacturers design their own, many use standard displays like the QS-S4 and EY3. These common units can be found on scooters ranging from $800 to $3,000.

Lights

Electric scooter lighting rigs vary wildly. Some rely on a single headlight, others introduce taillights, and some even come equipped with turn signals and customizable LEDs.

Cheap scooters have weak headlights and taillights, and as the price of a scooter increases, so too does the power of the lights as well as the inclusion of different types.

Water-Resistance Ratings

More expensive scooters tend to have higher water-resistance ratings and are better protected in wet weather.

Most scooters come with an IP rating that ranges between IPX4 (protected against water splashes) and IPX6 (protected against powerful water jets).

Anti-Theft Features

Which anti-theft features are included on a scooter tends to depend more on the specific model rather than the price. However, some increase the price slightly.

Common anti-theft features include key-lock ignitions, digital locks, built-in cable locks, and remote-control alarm systems.

Horns

Horns are included on almost all electric scooters. However, they vary in their power.

While cheaper scooters will have simple bells, those that are more expensive can have motorcycle-grade horns capable of bellowing out 105 dB of honking action.

Seat Attachments

Scooters that come with seat attachments can vary in price but in most cases, the attachment must be purchased separately.

For example, the Hiboy S2 Pro costs $619 with an additional $89 required for the seat. The Wolf King GT, on the other hand, is $3,595 and you need to pay an extra $145 for the seat.

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